Inlet manifold "otter" switch.

testrider wrote,...
but how did you get the old one out?
Click to expand...

Hello Paul,

When I replaced the 1974 original in 2008, I probably spent 3 or 4 hours picking at it in order to remove it all. The seating flange around the top largely broke off, and the bowl section I then hammered inwards so as to crush it. In this way it could be pulled out.

Ron.
 
Gidday Paul,

My switch was horribly corroded and leaking like a fingerless dyke, but it levered up and out without much trouble (it sounds like luck might have been on my side). The old seal was all stuck around the hole, so after picking at it for a while I left it for the grit blaster to clean up when I took the manifold in to be stripped. That made short work of that job.
 
Thanks guys. Sounds like a job for a winter afternoon then, I've been threatening to strip and paint the manifold and rockers for a couple of years so this could be the incentive I need.

I don't have the will power for a 4+ hour session picking bits of thermoswitch out of the manifold at the moment - the sun's shining and I want to use the car.
 
Gents, the £21 remanufactured otter switch from SNG Barratt is installed in my car and working perfectly.

DSC01378.jpg
 
Gents
I am about to paint my inlet manifold with a paint that requires baking at 200c
I dont want to destroy the otter switch in the baking .
When removing the otter switch the top with the bi-metal blade and connector parted company with the body .Leaving the body still in the manifold.
Fortunately the three small bolts came out OK.
There is a pool of what looks like coolant in the bottom of the switch body .Is this in order or is it buggered?
Before I removed the otter switch the light on the facia comes on when the choke is first pulled and stays on until the choke is returned .Not when the motor heats up
If its knackered , where do I get a new one ?
Thanks
 
Having come apart I'd certainly say the switch is beyond saving. When working properly, the choke light should come on after a few mins when the choke is still out and should go out once the choke is pushed home.
It serves only as a reminder that the choke is still out.

Not sure where they can be sourced these days, Warren certainly knows as I am sure some other forum members will too.

Ron.
 
Indeed I do. I looked around quite a bit before taking a successful punt on the re-manufactured item from SNG Barratt (links available further back in this thread). It's a well made item, more solid than the original (see photo above) and has worked well for me. The price was very good too, even if they did sting me on postage to NZ.
 
The weirdest thing.
I accidently disassembled the "broken" otter switch on the inlet manifold when trying to remove it.
So I left the main otter body in the manifold and removed the three screws with the sensor blade/feed connection .
The pool of coolant remained with the otter switch body and was baked in our kitchen oven @200c.to heat treat my repainted inlet manifold.
Upon re-assembly I cleaned up the switch connection and replaced the old otter switch with gasket goo ,just to keep the coolant from oozing out over my nice clean mani.
Hey presto the light on my dash now goes out when the motor warms .
What the. ??
I would have put munnie on the switch being stuffed.
I will probably order up one of those remade Barratt units you have Warren , just in case.
Anyone else in NZ want to join in on a reco'd otter switch and save on freight from the UK ?
my email geraldmiller@ihug.co.nz
 

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Hi Gerald,

If the amber light comes on the moment you pull the choke knob, and goes out as the coolant temp rises, the switch is doing the exact opposite of what it should. When it works right, as Ron says it comes on only after a while, as a reminder that your engine is warming up and you might want to consider taking it off choke. Mine comes on after only a couple of minutes while the engine is still quite cold and definitely needs choke, so it more than likely due for a replacement.

Cheers

Tor
 
Hello Tor
Im a little dyslexic
The choke light comes on when the engine IS warm ,totally arsyboo to what I said.
All the same Im going to order up another otter switch.
thanks for the heads up
Ive fitted an electronic distributor out of a Disco and the motor runs up to smooth quite quickly now , as soon as she fires . She doesnt like the choke after the initial start.
So the choke goes back in way before the light comes on anyway .
Is this an oddity ?
Dont know why Im bothering with the otter switch for now anyway .
Just trying to keep things in working order I guess .
See , im answering my own question.
Gerald
 
Keep going Gerald! You might end up answering a few of ours as well.

My otter switch was all scungy and falling apart, and when I looked at eBay prices for a replacement I considered not bothering at all, and just blanking the hole. But my retarded anal just wouldn't let me. I couldn't bring myself to take a lazy shortcut, and now I'm the proud and happy owner of a Barratt repro switch. Of course, having already bought one I will have to decline the offer of taking part in a NZ switch-drop, but there are a few other Kiwis around here, such as KiwiRover, GHCE, etc, who might be in need. Exchange rate is excellent right now, too.
 
I would have thought that the part would still be available from the land rover parts supply as after all it is the same inlet manifold. When it came to changing my inlet manifold it was a simple matter to get the origional part on to the edlebrock manifold as there was no corrosion or rust on either the switch or manifold.

Graeme
 
Yeah Nah
Local landrover agent can supply the gasket .
How very bloody handy !!
Why have that in stock without the switch itself
I could answer that question but it would be rude
Gerald
 
Oh yes! I remember getting the same response from LR here. And I expect that if they did have the switch they'd charge moonbeams for it.
 
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