Hub cap decal;how to fix firmly?

A

awind269

New Member
Here is a silly question.
While waxoiling the wings I took the wheel hub cap off and the central Rover decal fell off. It is essentially a laminated plastic badge. What is the best way to reattach it ? Currently it would need to be stuck to bear chrome metal. I could use super glue but if I get it wrong it will come off on the road and be lost forever so it would be annoying to get it wrong. What would a professional use ?
Alastair
 
Contact cement is less likely to give way, since it is not brittle and uneffected by jolts, etc.
I would go with that.
 
I agree, you need something that can cope with some vibration, other options are Sikaflex or Tigerseal, or some similar polyurethane type adhesive/sealer. I've used it to stick number plates on before.
 
I used the off the shelf stuff from B &Q like, sticks like shit or no nails on my 'S' trims and latterly on my rostyle centers when I fitted new badging!!
Still on 5 yrs later and its used everyday!
Only problem is that they dont like being in the sun,they fade quite rapidly.
 
Only problem is that they dont like being in the sun,they fade quite rapidly
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Give them several coats of clear lacquer from an aerosol and they look better and last longer

Amazing stuff is No More Nails but does it have any uses on cars ?
 
DaveHerns said:
Amazing stuff is No More Nails but does it have any uses on cars ?
Click to expand...

I dont normally admit to it, but a few years ago I forgot my mot was out on my Dolly Sprint,and my welder was broke,no more nails did a sterling job on fixing the plates that really needed welding! :wink:
Got through the mot no problem! :D
I did weld them on properly in time for the next mot,but they were a bugger to get off!! :LOL:
 
No more nails is an acrylic adhesive and fine for bonding things to buildings with not much flexing stress.

'Sticks Like SH*T' is an MS Polymer and is used for more rugged bonding on vehicles. They (MS Polymers) have a much higher bond, a better flexiblity and are a lot more durable than acrylics. Other MSs are Stixall, Fixall, Tradeseal MS, and Evode's polite version, 'Superior to Silicone.'

Ms Polymers are easier to use than polyurethanes, more forgiving and don't yellow if you get a white one in the sun. BUT you cannot paint over them very well like you can with a Polyurethane.

I would use an MS in this instance.

Richard
 
Never tried that, but don't see why not. Better off using one of the structural ones though, like Soudal 270 HS, or Tradeseal MS/HS.

A structural twin pack acrylic would do the job better though.

Richard
 
Just use sickoflex or some other seam sealer. I used this on the Rover Vikings on my vinyl 1/4 panels .... waterproof and bullet proof.
 
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