Heater not blowing

machman767

Active Member
And now a new problem!
For some reason I cannot get the heater to blow air into the car, the fan works as it should and the leavers move around correctly, the issue seems to be the main valve flap that stays resolutely closed. If I open it by hand, moving the linkage anti clockwise it works, can anyone suggest how I can fix it? Looked in the WM, doesn't seem very clear.

Mick
 
Presumably it is the standard heater and not an air con unit. If so the flap connections are all down one end and terminate in three rods in the middle at teh back which run back inside and have three tabs which connect to the in car levers. It sounds like something isn't connected. If the levers seem to work ok - (they go up and down without going in and out) and you can move the flap by hand, check the convoluted linkage on the end of the box to see if everything there moves when youmove the flap by hand. then have alook behind the center console and you will see the three levers. The motor and top flap one is the right hand side and it has a crank in it just before it bolts to the firewall lever stub. check to see it is bolted up tight and move the lever to see if it moves ok. If it does and the box end part doesn't it will be the end piece on the return rod that has come loose. Note the connections at the firewall have locating pin and a fixing screw. both should be in line: if the screw comes out then the lever will pivot on the pin and not move the rod and vice versa if the pin has come out. There are a few other threads on here recently on how to fix the rod ends.
 
Hi, Mike, thanks for the reply, managed to solve the problem. The bolt had come off the connection from the blower switch to the connecting rod, bodged it up and it works. Just need to get a correct size nut and bolt before it parts again.....

Mick
 
It's 10 UNF x 1/2" long. that's number ten not ten millimetres. I'd use a nylock nut so it doesn't come loose again. It is a bit fiddly but easier than trying to get a spring washer on. note that they have a 5/16" head but some manufacturers make the nuts for 3/8" spanners (next size up) and only supply halfnuts which are only half as high
check the three electrical connections also work while your there, some of the lever chassis are plastic and the copper buttons can melt through if the connection isn't spot on top. The braided wire attached to the leaver is the earth for the circuit.
 
I think the hole the bolt goes into is threaded so you shouldn't need a nut. Also, easiest way to tighten the bolt is to drop the opposite glove box and with a few extension on a socket tighten the bolt there. Sort of counter intuitive but you get enough room to swing the ratchet that way.
 
Thanks, guys, much appreciated. Another problem seems to have arisen, she's now developed a sporadic leak from, strangely, the heater matrix, seems to be near to where the inlet hose connects to it, I'm hoping the rad won't need replacing, how tricky a job is it?

Mick
 
The inlet hose is the bottom one, and because of it's location, and the difficulty in getting to the hoseclip, it's often the clip that needs tightening, so try that first. If that fails then the heater has to be removed to replace the matrix.
 
Back
Top