Electric radiator fans

S

sowen

Active Member
This isn't exactly p6 engine specific so I thought I would put it in the Lounge :)

I'm about to get some electric radiator fans for my project p6 and my land rover. Measuring up the standard 2000 radiator I currently have fitted to my p6, I believe I could fit two 10" electric fans diagonally accross it. Eventually I plan to have the larger v8 radiator or equivilant fitted in it's place and will obviously transfer the fans over, or if there's enough space, fit two larger fans. I just wondered what size electric fan or fans others have fitted to their p6's, whether they are 4 cylinders or v8's?
 
Sparky uses a 14" fan from race Spec

Ebay - 120572168741

At present it runs from the old kenlowe switch, but I do have a revotec adjustable fan switch which will be fitted when the engine goes back in.

Richard
 
My Land Rover has a Spal VA01-AP6-36S which is 12", but packs quite a punch. Cost 40 pounds off eBay a few years back. It's mounted in front of the radiator, controlled by a Kenlowe switch. It's quite a deep design so fine for the Landy, but wouldn't fit the P6 very easily.
 
quattro said:
Sparky uses a 14" fan from race Spec

Ebay - 120572168741

At present it runs from the old kenlowe switch, but I do have a revotec adjustable fan switch which will be fitted when the engine goes back in.

Richard
Click to expand...


Hi Richard

I've just bought one of these Race Spec fans for my V8. I shopped around to find out how much it would cost to get my rad recored and that was £150.....versus the £30 for one of these it was a no-brainer really.

How have you attached yours to the rad? I know your engine is out at the mo but do you have a pic of the rad with the fan attached?

I'm just gonna wire it through a relay to a switch next to the heater rear window switch for manual operation.

Thanks

Dave
 
As previously seen, my monster fan, found discarded & fitted to Bruiser who's a 4 pot :

DSC03041.jpg


The Radiator is fitted with an extra row & she'll take a fair amount of traffic before the fan needs to be switched on & then the temp needle stays firmly in the green......normally.
 
The Rovering Member said:
As previously seen, my monster fan, found discarded & fitted to Bruiser who's a 4 pot :
Click to expand...

'Pologies if this has been answered before, but how did you around the protruding part of the original fan/water pump shaft?
As someone else mentioned, this sticks way out even with the fan itself removed.
 
On mine where the rad bolts at the bottom there were three holes so I was able to move the bottom of the rad away from the engine by an inch. At the top a little man handing gave me the final inch of movement to clear the waterpump. I do wonder why it's got a long nose on it.
 
Not to hijack the thread, but a question for The Rovering Member - I see your fan has curved blades, which I hear makes it quieter. Can you advise on that claim - what's the noise like?? I'm looking at a 14" like the one Quattro has in Sparky, a pusher sitting outside the rad (btw. rad and grille) due to the protruding spinner bit on the waterpump, but unsure about type. Think a fairly quiet one has more class 8)
 
Some very simple maths answers this point. For a given rotational speed (rpm) of the fan, the speed through the air of the fan blade at any point along its length is proprtional to the square of its distance from the hub. Thus a fan blade that is quite happy halfway out from the hub could be supersonic by the time you reach its tip. Therefore you need to have a differnet attack angle for the blade by the time you get to the tip to the angle that is ideal close to the hub. Curving the blade helps to achieve this. For confirmation look at the propellors on a modern turbo-prop aircraft - the Airbus A400M military transport springs to mind - and you'll see exactly the same curved format for the blades.

There are two ways of looking at the effect. You can think of it as preventing the tips of the blades buffeting and creating noise, or you can think of it as allowing the inner parts of the blades to run fast enough to make a contribution to pulling the air through. So a curved blade fan will run quieter than a straight bladed one of the same size and it will also shift more air, so will keep the rad cooler.

Chris
 
In answer to the two questions, my water pump is a short-nose & the electric fan is positioned to the side so there is enough clearance though it is quite close. This fan is in fact, fairly noisy. Not sure if it's the air movement or the motor though it spins freely & seems balanced. Maybe that's why it was dumped.
However it works fine & I don't mind the noise as it suits the character of the car.
 
Thanks for the explanations, I was reluctant to move the radiator as I didn't want the complication of fitting longer hoses, but I guess an inch or so isn't a problem. I didn't realise short nosed water pumps were available, so food for thought there too.
 
Dave3066 said:
quattro said:
Sparky uses a 14" fan from race Spec

Ebay - 120572168741

At present it runs from the old kenlowe switch, but I do have a revotec adjustable fan switch which will be fitted when the engine goes back in.

Richard
Click to expand...


Hi Richard

I've just bought one of these Race Spec fans for my V8. I shopped around to find out how much it would cost to get my rad recored and that was £150.....versus the £30 for one of these it was a no-brainer really.

How have you attached yours to the rad? I know your engine is out at the mo but do you have a pic of the rad with the fan attached?

I'm just gonna wire it through a relay to a switch next to the heater rear window switch for manual operation.

Thanks

Dave
Click to expand...

Hi Dave

The fan is fitted with one of the fitting kits directly onto the radiator.

I am aware that this isn't the best way of fitting them and when it goes back in I will be making up some bracketry to fix it to the base unit so that it sits just in front of the rad.

Sorry but I don't have any pics of that bit at the moment

Richard
 
quattro said:
Hi Dave

The fan is fitted with one of the fitting kits directly onto the radiator.

I am aware that this isn't the best way of fitting them and when it goes back in I will be making up some bracketry to fix it to the base unit so that it sits just in front of the rad.

Sorry but I don't have any pics of that bit at the moment

Richard
Click to expand...

I think I'll go with a fitting kit for now then as they're not too expensive, unless I can see a bracket option when I offer the fan up to the rad. I'm definitely going to do the in-line fan controller in the top rad hose though. Apart from the automation, it'll save me having to run too many wires back to the dash. All I'll need is a supply to the fan and controller. Which are all readily available under the bonnet via an in-line fuse or a fused relay.

Do you think it's wise to fit a manual over-ride or are the auto switches pretty reliable?

Cheers

Dave
 
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