Clock testing

Richard Edwards

Richard Edwards

Active Member
Good evening all

The clock in my car does nothing

I have obtained a replacement clock for my S2 3500 dash

Can I test it with my trickle charger as a power source or does it run from the 10v voltage regulator?

I would like to test it if I can prior to fitting to eliminate the clock as a source of the problem if it doesn`t work when installed

I thank you all
 
You'll probably find the fusible link needs soldering, but you'll be fine putting 12V across it to test.

The voltage regulator only feeds the fuel and temperature gauges.

More info: My thread from three ( :eek: ) years ago.
 
That doesn`t work then

Both my chargers are too intelligent, they will only do something when connected to a battery, they are useless as a power source

Have to try a battery and two bits of wire
 
If you have a close look at the innards of your clock, you should see what looks like a set of points, like in the dizzy. When the clock winds down, these point close and a circuit is formed which winds the clock back up again. These can be dirty, or sometimes the clock gets stuck just before they close, meaning the clock doesn't get its rewind. Have a good look and check they are closed. If not, try gently moving them apart and together a few times to free them up.

If the points are open and the clock is wound down, putting 12V across it won't do anything.

Richard
 
If the points are closed and the clock is not taking current, it could be that the fusible link has failed. This is a special low melting point solder, but can sometimes be repaired by holding the ends together and touching with a low wattage soldering iron.
 
Is the fusible link the small tag that connect to the back of the coil that creates the magnetic pull to activate the winding mechanism? If it is then I have repaired 3 or 4 clocks by re soldering this way. This seems to be the most common fault I have come across. A little fiddly but O.K if you are careful. If the fusible link is elsewhere then check where I described above for a probable fix. The clockwork mechanism seems never to die.

A handy 12v power source is a power supply for christmas tree lights and the like. Many of them are 12v and are often chucked out when the lights die. I have 2, one with alligator clips and one with probes. They come with a good long leads too. Good for most lower powered applications like lights and clocks. Dont try it on a starter motor though!!
 
Try model shops for solder, places that do model railway spares. There's a range of melting points available, low melt stuff is for white metal kits and it's available in small quantities.
 
Fitted a replacement, all is well now I think

It is ticking nicely and every couple of minutes clicks which I think is what it is supposed to do
 
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