BW66 cooler options

Oldskoolrob

Oldskoolrob

Active Member
Howdy! I've got a BW66 mated to a 3.5. I'm going to run a cooler (no cooler in the rad). Are flexible lines ok or should I make hard-lines? If hard-lines what material is best? If hard-lines what fitting is used to the box - at the moment there's just barb fittings with a hose joining the two. If I have the cooler mounted under the car do you think it will need a fan? Not sure if there's enough room up front to mount anything - space is TIGHT! Cheers :)

EDIT: oh and how do you connect the neutral safety switch - I can't see any spade connectors on it? Probably should have looked before I put the box in lol.

EDIT EDIT: Looking at the images I've found, I think my neutral safety switch has just had the tabs broken off it for some reason....DOH
 
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There should be four spades on the switch. Two are the inhibitor switch and two are the reversing lights. From memory they are rivetted on with brass rivets but I have in the past drilled the rivets out and replaced them with BA set screws and nuts (and new blades from electronics store). Best done on the bench. The black part is only crimped into the aluminium case and can be carefully removed after decrimping. Be careful as its full of springs and little bits but they aren't a big handful to get or keep in there respective homes. Oh only loosen the locknut enough to undo the switch and leave it in that position so you won't need to go through the setting procedure (hopefully). From memory the two switch terminals are opposite one another and they work perfectly well with the engine off so you can check them with a battery and light while operating the shift lever.
 
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Re oil cooler lines. The standard setup has the cooler in the radiator tank. Its just a pipe that goes into the cold side tank, up about three quarters of the way then back down again. Simple enough to braze in if your having a radiator made. Apart from cost that arrangement heats the oil up faster to its operating temp which is in the vicinity of the engine temp. It also stops the fluid from overcooling which can be an issue in a cooler climate. Normally there are hard lines (steel but copper is ok) between the two pan connections and the front of the engine then two flexible lines with a bend in them (to allow for movement) into the cooler (radiator). If you use a seperate cooler, you should add a thermostat to keep fluid above mimimum operating temp.
 
mikecoombs said:
There should be four spades on the switch. Two are the inhibitor switch and two are the reversing lights. From memory they are rivetted on with brass rivets but I have in the past drilled the rivets out and replaced them with BA set screws and nuts (and new blades from electronics store). Best done on the bench. The black part is only crimped into the aluminium case and can be carefully removed after decrimping. Be careful as its full of springs and little bits but they aren't a big handful to get or keep in there respective homes. Oh only loosen the locknut enough to undo the switch and leave it in that position so you won't need to go through the setting procedure (hopefully). From memory the two switch terminals are opposite one another and they work perfectly well with the engine off so you can check them with a battery and light while operating the shift lever.
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That sounds like the BW35 inhibitor switch in ref to the locknut. He's asking about the BW66 which is a later version of the BW65 fitted to later P6bs and more commonly found in the SD1 and possibly XJ6. Having looked on the Rimmer's site for the BW66 inhibitor switch it doesn't have the spade connections of the BW65 one, which leads me to think the inhibitor switch/switches are on the tunnel mounted gear selector assembly like in the XJ6. Perhaps @harveyp6 can confirm or deny. :hmm:

Colin
 
colnerov said:
That sounds like the BW35 inhibitor switch in ref to the locknut. He's asking about the BW66 which is a later version of the BW65 fitted to later P6bs and more commonly found in the SD1 and possibly XJ6. Having looked on the Rimmer's site for the BW66 inhibitor switch it doesn't have the spade connections of the BW65 one, which leads me to think the inhibitor switch/switches are on the tunnel mounted gear selector assembly like in the XJ6. Perhaps @harveyp6 can confirm or deny. :hmm:

Colin
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So mine might not be missing spades, but not have them at all? How does it connect to the wiring? REALLY should have thought of this before I put the box in lmao....
 
It's still difficult to tell, the terminals may be broken inside, or need male Lucar connectors on the end of the wires. The switches can be dismantled but best if you can avoid that.
 
There were various types of switches, some had Lucar terminals, others had the wires permanently fixed inside the switch, with multi plugs of different types on the end.
 
harveyp6 said:
It's still difficult to tell, the terminals may be broken inside, or need male Lucar connectors on the end of the wires. The switches can be dismantled but best if you can avoid that.
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So is that just a small spade type connector or something more specific? Going to use the Cortina column/shift.
 
Just normal Lucar connectors. The problem you will have using the cortina column selector is that's a five position selector, not six as on the BW66, so you will lose position "1"
 
harveyp6 said:
Just normal Lucar connectors. The problem you will have using the cortina column selector is that's a five position selector, not six as on the BW66, so you will lose position "1"
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Well dang it I hadn't thought of that. I wonder if I can pull apart the column and cut another gate into the mechanism to make it 6. What would you do?
 
Just use the five position selector, and adjust it so that you just lose position "1", you will still have first in "D", and if it's a Jag box you'll still have it in "2" as well.
 
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