4HP22 for sale - would it be worth making a bid?

Hello Warren,

Here are some pics. It is an automatic as you can see the transmission oil cooler lines, and it looks like a ZF,..so it has been done.

p6_exhaust_01.jpg


p6_exhaust_02.jpg


I can find no info about this on their website, but when discussing their P5B conversion, custom made linkages are mentioned. These pics have also gone from their website.

http://www.v8engines.com/

Ron.
 
Synchronicity, Tim. I was just reading that same thread. Predating John's efforts in the above, taking an angle grinder to the fins is also mentioned here:

(viewtopic.php?f=1&t=5374&start=45)

I'm interested in trying to knit the various bits of info littered over the forum and elsewhere into a coherent guide to performing the conversion, but whether I'll have the time is something else altogether.
 
Ah, you were posting while I was typing, Ron. Interesting piccies indeed. Tidy looking exhaust, too.

Our man Rockdemon has also previously posted this:
 
Has that been posted elsewhere here? I'm sure I've seen that before.

Right, it's Friday night, 9.30pm or so. I'm off to bed. The crazy life of a Rover fan, huh?
 
I got as far as trial fitting one in a car. It was the proper LDV/Sherpa/Daf type with the speedo drive on the back and the right driveshaft flange and I only had to cut the lhs ribs and trans mounts out of the trans tunnel. The right hand ones would JUST clear the tailshaft, and the bellhousing was very close to the firewall by the starter motor but that could have been adjusted with a few judicious wallops. Apart from that there was ample room. It would just require some creativity for a trans mount. I was planning to use a modified ZF bracket mated to a modified BW65 crossmember but I didn't get much further than that.
I would say that it should be no more challenging than fitting a LT77 and certainly easier than fitting a Celica/Supra box.
 
The right output flange? is it the same as the P6B prop shaft flange? also what about overal length, is it the same as the BW35/65 when using the daf box?

Graeme
 
Hey there Down Under - a quick pause for breath!!

First off the pictures of a ZF in a P6B are of my "English" car. Not taken by me, but the give away is the "Partsrange" logo which is RPi and the exhaust system, which I'd recognise anywhere! No there is no requirement to cut the tunnel about, apart from the obvious ammendments to the rear mounting. Yes we did take an angle grinder to the fins on the bellhousing to get a little more safety to the lower leading edge of the front bulkhead. I suppose if you were trying to convert a manual transmission car to auto that would recquire the shell to be modified, but no more than fitting a BW! The reference to modifying linkages is true as far as it goes, but nowhere near as alarming as it sounds! There is a lever on the bottom of the existing BW quadrant that provides the mechanical advantage to move the cable inner. It just needs the attachment point re-drilling in a different position. I haven't actually done that bit, as we reached that stage after the car was sidelined at Alan's. But there are now at least four or five that have been converted in the UK by Reg Mason's business. Also, don't get the comment about the output shaft and flange out of proportion. We used an LDV box and the output flange on that is the same as the BW so bolts straight up to the existing prop. The prop does require shortening though, around a couple of inches from memory, not a difficult job. The only other possible hazard i can think of is that this car is an early '68, so has the early type engine mounts. They make the engine sit slightly lower in the body than the more normal later ones. No huge drama if it did turn out to be a problem on a later car - just fit the early type mounts which are common with the P5B.

So why don't I know whether it has lock up on third then? Well this car only ran very briefly in this form and neevr got out of 2nd on its one run round the blocl (a very long story!).

I know you are very proud of your strengthened and improved BW, Ron; but the motivation fror the ZF isn't about strength, its about relaxed cruising. Sadly the BW would need a much taller final drive to achieve the same and that just isn't available. Plus of course, you get the lock up facility.

My Baby Rover has a ZF auto with the same characteristicsas the HP22, and the way it performs is a revalation after the P6's BW.

The notes on rebuilding a ZF are very interesting, Ron. The A clutch pack is clearly the ZF weak point. I had some guys buy my spare HP24 off me the other day who were fixing a P38 box. The A clutch pack on that had litterally split in two! That said, I have every reason to believe they are significantly more robust in use than the (UK version) BW. I hadn't clocked the Volvo use of these boxes before. So far I have spotted the following different tailshaft assemblies on cable control boxes - Volvo, BMW, Jaguar and LDV. Of these BMW and LDV have mechanical speedo drive outputs (I can't see one on the Volvo?) The other important difference between varieties is the valve block. The BW changes up (and down) on a combination of load and speed. The ZF minimum change points are set by speed alone (it will hang on to gears longer in response to heavy throttle, but it won't change up earlier in response to llight throttle), You could characterise it as an automated manual transmission where the BW is a true auto. For the Rover V8 it is therefore important to get the correct valve block so as to reduce the change up speeds as much as possible. This is only to be found in the Range Rover. The other usefull source material on ZF's is Wikipedia:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_ZF_transmissions.

Be careful with that listing as it includes both cable control and electronic versions under the same category.

Chris
 
hi,
bmw boxes you are after are around 86 -89 so limited.

as i have fuel injection, i am looking at using the range rover box 4HP22 EH or 4HP22E ( electronic ) using the ecu to control it, also i can get lock up on second and third. convert the pulse onto my mechanical driven cable not a problem. change the transfer box, use a shallower sump and different filter. don't know yet, if to keep the original gear lever inside and not have the use to put it in 1st or use the switchable function or use either the range rover ( too large and ugly ) or bmw ( will have to look and see if they will fit ) gear lever and use all of the functions that they have as well.

ian
 
Thoroughly awesome reply, Chris. Your typing finger must have been a'tappin' all night long to get that lot down!

Some of the details will take some absorbing into my non-mechanical brain, but the important point is that the whole project is gradually sounding more and more feasible as we thrash this all out.
 
Now, somewhere around here somebody mentioned the complexity of changing the tailshaft on a 4HP22. If one was to start off with a good box that only requires a service/overhaul, not a complete rebuild, does this mean that it would be easier to obtain, say, a BMW specimen, and fit the RR bell housing, flywheel, valve gear etc?
 
Now I know exactly what I'm going to do with my old BW post transplant! The wife's gonna love this idea.
 
WarrenL said:
Now I know exactly what I'm going to do with my old BW post transplant! The wife's gonna love this idea.

:LOL: you are planning on a divorce soon :LOL:

Graeme
 
No, but if it ever comes down to the "it's me or that bloody car" ultimatum, I'm going to be in a real fix.
 
The auction expired and the dude's offered me the gearbox for $88. That's about £42.

I know nothing about this box, other than what was stated in the auction.

What do you think, fellas?
 
Hello Warren,

I'd go for it. It is cheap at twice the price and it is a learning experience, so money well spent.

Ron.
 
Back
Top