1967 2000TC - HOT

I hope the oil doesn't need any volume of flow to pressurise it! But if drain back is occurring, that's a different matter. Perhaps you and I and Brian have been tilting at the wrong windmill in looking at how far above sump level the oil pump is. Perhaps the real issue is oil draining out of the galleries and bearings and possibly draining back out of the oil filter? If those were occurring that would be a much better cause for a long build up time for pressure when starting?

Chris
 
If i understood correctly you are talking about the factory oil cooler set up.
Well, i cannot imagine that Rover would have installed a system that drains back and takes so much time to fill up again that accelerates engine wear.
In my car at least this is not the case. The only part that affects the oil pressure build up is the type of oil filter used. As it fits up side down it tends to drain its contends back to the sump if it doesn't have the correct anti-drain valves.
 
It would be very hard to completely drain back into the sump owing to the fact that the gallery is below the pump, and the pipe from the sump is above the level of the pump. There is a small square section upright piece that acts as a small reservoir. As Demetris says, with the correct anti-return valve in the oil pump, it should be fine. I think the issue on start up is drawing the next load of oil up from the sump, not pushing the existing oil through the galleries. On initial start up, the sump-to-pump pipe will be empty, so the only thing to push the filter-full of oil onwards in air pressure. Likewise, atmospheric vacuum is the only thing to pull the next load of oil up. So I think we were barking up the correct tree. There is 'stretchable' capacity of air in the system on initial start up that can't be avoided.

The oil cooler pipes go between the pump and gallery, so there's no reason for the engine to take longer to fill the system up with oil (ie sump-to-pump pipe is same length). My concern is the additional volume of oil ahead of the gallery (in the cooler) that needs pressurizing. In other words, the system is an extra pint bigger. There's only one way to find out I suppose....
 
redrover said:
On initial start up, the sump-to-pump pipe will be empty, so the only thing to push the filter-full of oil onwards in air pressure.

Off topic slightly here, but why would the oil pick up pipe be empty with a cold engine if it's connected to the bottom of the oil pump at one end and submersed in oil at the other?

Do you know if the oil pipes from the engine to the cooler you have are similar to the ones I'd need?
 
To flesh out a bit more detail on what I posted a few days ago, take a look at this diagram (nothing happening in work today so mugged this up in my lunch hour :wink: ) and tell me if you think my reasoning makes sense....

It illustrates roughly what I think the lubrication system will look like immediately before start up after being left over night:


Sump by michaeljallen19, on Flickr

As I said earlier, I don't believe the galleries could empty back into the sump, and the diagram illustrates my thinking. The galleries are below the level of the pump. So on start up, the oil in the pump, the non-return filter and the little bit in the alleged 'priming' reservoir, can immediately start pushing on the volume of oil in the whole engine, with an instant building of pressure.

The problem (at least in my mind) is what happens for those couple of seconds after the oil pump, filter and priming reservoir have been emptied of their oil.
Everything after the rotor of the oil pump is a closed system - I think everybody will be happy with that reasoning - and so the pressure from the pump should be more or less equally replicated everywhere else in the system. The problem for me is the pick-up pipe from the sump.
As testrider says, in theory, this is a closed system as well, owing to the fact that it is bordered by oil in the priming reservoir at one end and the submerged pick up at the other. So air can't seep in from either end. But there are a lot of seals (a needless amount) in the P6 lubrication system, and in my experience of removing the external pick-up pipe a few times, it is virtually empty of oil when cold. The other one, however, is full - as you would expect. So however it's happening, air is definitely able to get into that pick-up pipe, displacing the oil and allowing it to slip back down the pipe under influence of gravity and sit in the sump until it's needed again.

Now, if the system were entirely full of oil at start up, there wouldn't be a problem, and full pressure would be achieved as soon as the pump was up to speed. This is because oil is largely non-compressible and it would be a true closed system from sump to bearings. But air pressure can be varied wildly. And if the pump ends up sucking on the pipe-full of air as soon as the priming reservoir is empty (as shown below), it will take quite a while for sufficient vacuum to pull up large quantities of oil to create the closed system again.
This diag sort of shows what I'm thinking....


Oil pump in action by michaeljallen19, on Flickr

Brian Humphreys and I both agree that our engines do take a little while to build full pressure. 5-8 secs maybe? And there is a little bit of bearing knock detectable on start-up (we both have fully rebuilt bottom ends btw). The excessively high fast-idle speed of SU's on full choke also does little to help matters in my/our opinion(s).

It's food for thought, and more academic than anything, as there's nothing we could feasibly do about it without going for a dry-sump conversion with a reservoir up on the bulk head. But I'm of the opinion that this could well be a big factor in the excessively short life expectancy of the bottom end bearings. Put it this way, I'd have expected to see a lot more stress-fractured/cracked/exploded blocks and/or thrown con-rods if the block were really as 'wobbly' as the other theory suggests.

There are also very few engines with an oil pump mounted as high up as the P6 four-cylinder. Why is that? Simple. It was originally intended to be a modular design that could be built as a 4-cylinder (Rover 2000 - P6) or 6-cylinder engine (Rover 3000 - P7, anticipated launch late 1965). So all of the ancillary components were gathered into one separate housing, meaning that the only changes required to build a 6-cyl were longer block, sump and head castings (which could be machined on the same tooling) and a different cam and crank shaft. The valve train, pistons, rods, pumps, ancillaries, etc, could all remain the same.

What do we think?

Michael
 
testrider said:
Do you know if the oil pipes from the engine to the cooler you have are similar to the ones I'd need?

Hi Paul,

I've sourced replacement pipes for mine. I decided I couldn't very well trust the original pipes that came with my oil cooler - especially after my Stoneleigh incident! The unions are held on by that crappy bit of crimped ally. There's no thread or anything - it just crimps on and sits in a groove on the brass union. I took a skinny disc to the ally to remove them and release the union castings. The O/D of the union is 1-7/8" (22mm). I decided to opt for a stainless braided and bonded (or er missus) oil proof pipe, which I'm planning to hold on with good old fashioned jubilees to squash them into the same grooves.

Got 3m of something similar to (but a LOT cheaper than) this, which is well enough to replace the cooler pipes and the pump-to-gallery pipe which is still the original one.
http://www.earls.co.uk/earls/hose/autoflex.html

Michael
 
redrover said:
Brian Humphreys and I both agree that our engines do take a little while to build full pressure. 5-8 secs maybe? And there is a little bit of bearing knock detectable on start-up (we both have fully rebuilt bottom ends btw). The excessively high fast-idle speed of SU's on full choke also does little to help matters in my/our opinion(s).

Michael, I think that you should not worry too much. I also experience almost what you describe, but only when i have to start the engine in winter from stone cold, when full choke is necessary, and as soon as the engine fires it wants to rev instantly up to 2500 rpm. Under such conditions i can also hear bearing knock, but only for a fraction of a second. However,usually i am fast enough to put the choke in as soon as it starts, the revs won't go beyond 1500, and there's no bearing knock.
I also have a capilary oil pressure gauge that is plumbed straight into the main oil gallery at the rear of the block, and the needle climbs as soon as the engine starts. This means that there is no delay in pressurising the oil galleries as you suggest. Only at the first start up after an oil and filter change, the first normal pressure build up according to the gauge is followed by a momentary dip of the needle for something like a second, but without any nasty noise. I 'll try to post a video of the oil pressure gauge on start up, to see what it looks like.
As for the pipes i also replaced them when i first got the car using hydraulic high pressure braided items crimped on the original fittings. I can't really trust 40 year old rubber pipes.
 
Demetris, thanks that's really helpful. A capillary gauge is always going to give a far more accurate reading than the electric type, so that's really heartening. It takes a moment for my electric one to move off the stop, which is why I'm always grimacing when I start it up!
Like yours, mine always wants to race up to 2500rpm on a full choke start, so I also push it in halfway as soon as it catches. I suppose it's just me being precious about the bottom end after all the work I put in making it perfect!

Καλα Χριστουγεννα!

Μιχαελης
 
Καλά Χριστούγεννα Μιχάλη!

This is the video i was talking about. The quality is mobile phone rubbish, but you get the idea.
The engine was not stone cold, but it went for a very short run before, and then stood for about an hour in about 5 C.
If there was any oil to drain back in the sump, it had its chance to do so.

http://s106.photobucket.com/user/demetrisbouras/media/Rover/Rover P6/MOV_0048_zpsfbd81579.mp4.html

Now, instead of filling up Paul's thread, perhaps Rich could move the last posts into a new thread in the 4 cyl engine topic?
 
Thoroughly enjoy that video !! I expect I should make a similar one to see if anyone can explain the jumps that my capillary guage makes at idle. I replaced my cooler oil lines with high pressure hose and secured the old brass fittings with C clamps
: no problems at all.
Thanks for the trip inside your Rover, Demetris
 
Demetris, I've made a similar video to show you the comparison with my electric gauge, but not worked out and/or* been sober enough to get it off my phone yet. Will sort it out tomorrow for you. Think it will make an interesting comparison, as my gauge takes a lot longer to move up off the stop, but think this might be because it's quite heavily damped or something. Shall endeavour to upload!

Rich, can we have this as a separate thread please? Probably going to end up rumbling on about this for a little while and it isn't fair to clog up Paul's brilliant and interesting restoration with staggeringly boring things like this!

Michael

* delete as appropriate
 
I've having some new tyres fitted today - ordered online with a mobile fitter so we'll see how that goes. First impressions are good so far though - they've rung up this morning to double check the tyre size, as they thought it sounded a bit small for the car, and also to check the wheel nut size and torque setting - 65lbft isn't it?

I've decided to try the Continental Eco Contact 3 175/80r14 - all the information I can find suggests they're superior (lower rolling resistance, better wet braking and lower noise) to anything I can buy in 165/80R14, but to be honest any new tyre would be better than the old Pirellis Cinturatos that are fitted which are really hard now.
 
Thanks Harvey. I don't know if this it right or not, but an 18mm socket fits them perfectly too.

Tyre fitter fail! Only two tyres in the warehouse this morning not the 4 I ordered, so they're going to get more and come back on Wednesday.
 
Got the new Conti tyres fitted last week and I think they're pretty good, although anything would be better than what was on there - both rears dated early 2000, OSF front dated mid '84 and NSF dated mid '80! :shock: No wonder it didn't like wet roundabouts.
 
Another years ticket has been acquired - passed first time with no advisories! It's done just over 1250 miles since the last MOT, but as it was garaged until September whilst we moved house all most of that mileage has been done in the last 4 months.

I picked up some black flat pleat seats from Junkman of this parish a couple of weeks ago which have cleaned up a treat and are now fitted. I'll post some photos soon, but they're much nicer than the sandalwood ones it came with and the two tone interior is growing on me.
 
Back
Top