Yellow pasivating
- Thread starter quattro
- Start date
Phil Robson
Well-Known Member
I cleaned mine up & sprayed it a subtle gold colour. Not original but pretty cheap & it looks nice.
I was going to do that but thought I would give the replating a go.
From surfing around last night, it appears its just zinc plating with some sort of pasivating liquid (You can get blue or yellow).
So if you get a kit (I managed to find one for £70.00 including an acid derust kit) you can also zinc plate lots of other stuff with or witout the blue or yellow coatings.
I can drop all those rusty nuts and bolts into it and get some nice shiny, rustproof ones back out.
Got to be worth a go 8)
Richard
From surfing around last night, it appears its just zinc plating with some sort of pasivating liquid (You can get blue or yellow).
So if you get a kit (I managed to find one for £70.00 including an acid derust kit) you can also zinc plate lots of other stuff with or witout the blue or yellow coatings.
I can drop all those rusty nuts and bolts into it and get some nice shiny, rustproof ones back out.
Got to be worth a go 8)
Richard
vaultsman
Well-Known Member
quattro said:
Hi Richard,
I'd be careful before you shell out 70 quid on this. If you're plating onto clean-ish bare steel I'm sure the kit would work fine. Once rust has got a hold and etched into the surface, it would need, at the very least, pretty vicious chemical pickling before plating. The passivation process needs to be done after plating as it seals the zinc and gives it better corrosion resistance.
If you have a word with a local plater from your Yellow Pages, I'm sure they'd tell you what can and can't be plated...and explain it better than me!
Cheers,
unstable load
Well-Known Member
Ask him about hydrogen embrittlement while you're at it too. Specifically how he treats for it after plating.
vaultsman said:Hi Richard,
I'd be careful before you shell out 70 quid on this. If you're plating onto clean-ish bare steel I'm sure the kit would work fine. Once rust has got a hold and etched into the surface, it would need, at the very least, pretty vicious chemical pickling before plating. The passivation process needs to be done after plating as it seals the zinc and gives it better corrosion resistance.
If you have a word with a local plater from your Yellow Pages, I'm sure they'd tell you what can and can't be plated...and explain it better than me!
Cheers,
Thanks for the concern Stan
But, I am not expecting brand new bits, just want to have a go at it as I have never tried it before.
I currently own and run an adhesives company so am not worried by vicious chemicals - we have plenty of them.
I'll let you know how it turns out
Gotta be worth a try
Richard
vaultsman
Well-Known Member
As you say Richard...probably worth a go!
I deal with zinc, nickel and brass platers all the while at work, and they've done me one or two bits. The important thing is to get a clean surface to strike on, and if it's pitted before it'll look pitted afterwards.
Good Luck!
I deal with zinc, nickel and brass platers all the while at work, and they've done me one or two bits. The important thing is to get a clean surface to strike on, and if it's pitted before it'll look pitted afterwards.
Good Luck!
Hello Richard,
I made enquires here in Sydney about having my booster replated in 2008 when I did a major overhaul upon it. I was advised that the process of yore is no longer carried out as like chroming is a highly toxoc procedure....(very much frowned upon by the EPA) Instead a more environmentaly friendly process is carried out which will yield a nice iridescent yellow gold finish. They required my booster for at least one month. Now the downside,....the bright lovely new finish will not last and that within three years or so it will have faded to the point where it will essentially appear as if it was never done.... :shock:
So I thoroughly cleaned the vacuum chamber myself and pained it in a lovely silver hue, while the inside was painted in an anti corrosion paint that is also resistant to brake fluid.
Ron.
I made enquires here in Sydney about having my booster replated in 2008 when I did a major overhaul upon it. I was advised that the process of yore is no longer carried out as like chroming is a highly toxoc procedure....(very much frowned upon by the EPA) Instead a more environmentaly friendly process is carried out which will yield a nice iridescent yellow gold finish. They required my booster for at least one month. Now the downside,....the bright lovely new finish will not last and that within three years or so it will have faded to the point where it will essentially appear as if it was never done.... :shock:
So I thoroughly cleaned the vacuum chamber myself and pained it in a lovely silver hue, while the inside was painted in an anti corrosion paint that is also resistant to brake fluid.
Ron.
Frost do many plating kits and I've tried the yellow pass kit. If you do buy one firstly be aware that the measurements are in US gallons and not imp.
Also really go to town on the prep work, good results can be achieved but I had a few parts that didn't take too well, although I suspect they were a bit too far gone in the first place. There is good help available from the company over the net and by phone so you don't have to be a trained chemist and physicist to get to grips with it all, oh and another thing certain plating chemicals stink so you want to do it in a vented area, good luck with it.
Also really go to town on the prep work, good results can be achieved but I had a few parts that didn't take too well, although I suspect they were a bit too far gone in the first place. There is good help available from the company over the net and by phone so you don't have to be a trained chemist and physicist to get to grips with it all, oh and another thing certain plating chemicals stink so you want to do it in a vented area, good luck with it.