Won't start

happy days

happy days

Active Member
3500s won't start. Turns over but doesn't catch at all. Fuel is getting through, getting no spark. AA are here he checked coil that is ok. Electronic ignition we changed as I had a spare simonbbc one still nothing. While YOUNG AA guy is reading the W/S manual Any ideas from you experts
 
Agreed, I bet you've fitted a new cap or/and rotor recently.

On my 820 the rotor broke down and was earthing the spark to the dizzy shaft.
 
Cheers. Yes new cap as old one was broke, but it wouldn't start with old cap. So new cap rotor and electronic ignition. But it wouldn't start before they were fitted and still won't now. Why
 
Have you checked the supply to the electronic ignition module? If you've taken the 12V supply for the module from somewhere other than the coil, ie the washer bottle, check the fuse for that.

Dave
 
I would say, stick a spark plug in the end of the king lead, and test your getting a spark when cranking. Then do the same on the spark plug leads and see if you've got sparks there.

If you've got sparks from the king lead but not the plug leads then it is still cap/rotor related. If you have no spark at king lead then it's further back in the ignition system, maybe supply to electronic unit as suggested by Dave
 
Have spark he says ignition module is knackered. Existing one and the new one delivered this morning. Mmmmm
 
I doubt it, if you've got a spark surely it must be working :?

Bad engine earth ?

I'm starting to think it may be fuel related afterall.
 
Back to the question above ... When cap was replaced did it go back on 180 degrees out?
 
you cant put the cap on wrong but you can put the leads on wrong , done it myself,not saying you have but its possible , recheck lead order,good luck,rich
 
you cant put the cap on wrong but you can put the leads on wrong , done it myself,not saying you have but its possible , recheck lead order,good luck,rich
Click to expand...

Yep - that's what i meant... and yes... i've done it... twice :D
 
Best go back a stage chaps. If it didn't start before the new cap or any electronic ignition problems, then we're really looking for why it didn't start then, not trying to figure out problems with the caps and modules.

Happy Days, what's the history going up to why you fitted the cap and ignition module?

Chris
 
Ok had electronic ignition which had been working fine for a couple of months, went to put the car away one evening after using it during the day. It wouldnt start,so as it was late pushed it into garage, next morning found the dizzy cap had a hole in it where the clip sits in, ahhhh thats not good, that must be the problem, so ordered new cap and another electronic ign as a spare from simon bbc. This arrived and cap was fitted, didnt start, so might be electonic ign, fitted the new one, still wont start, checked for fuel, thats ok, called AA. Young lad turns up does all his testing and says he THINKS module on ign is knackered. He gets a spark when he disconnects lead from coil to dizzy at the dizzy, when he reconnected no spark at plugs. He assured me when i get new ign module all will be well. Simon has been brilliant and is sending out new kit.
 
Brill, just what I was looking for.

OK. SO the first possibility is that the new cap is incorrect for the distributor. There have been a couple of people that have had caps that are too tall and so the spring loaded king point inside the cap doesn't reach down onto the rotor arm to distribute the sparks outwards. There are several variations available, I seem to remember that SD1 and Range Rover caps appear to fit at first attempt but are actually different. It's possible if you just asked for a Rover V8 cap you've got the wrong one. Have you got an old cap you can try?

Next up has to be the order / orientation of the plug leads on the cap, as discussed here above.

Finally, it could genuinly be a dud module - but if the king lead from the coil is sparking, that sounds unlikely to me.

My money is on the first option.

Chris
 
Checked cap that is ok. Leads are right way according to W/SManual. Changed the electronic ign module and took ages but he kicked into life......... Sort of. Felt like it was on 4 cylinders, could not get any revs or he cut out, then started again fairly easily but still really rough. The AA guy yesterday was fiddling with the adjustment at side of dizzy, it moves the baseplate around.... I think. Would that cause these symptoms. At least I'm making progress. Cheers for the help
 
Update. Happy days is happy once more. An AA guy popped around and had a look, he said the timing was miles out and he would have a quick look. Well he did his Magic and got the car running and ticking over and said without a strobe light that's the best he could do but at least it's running. Either get yourself a strobe and do it yourself or pop it to a garage and get it done. Then he went. I took the car out and bloody he'll it's like flying. I was getting a bit of Spluttering at high revs mainly in 1st and 2nd at about 3000 revs but that has gone. Now should I take it in or mess about with a strobe or should I leave alone as it's the best I've had it. Advice please
 
In reality if it's running well a strobe isnt going to help much as timing figures are for 4 or 5 star fuel. I'd mark a little mark on the dizzy and timing cover and then just adjust a mil or two each way and take for a drive. if it's not better you've got your mark to go back to!

I find that PAE likes the timing set differently depending on whose super unleaded i'm using! tescos 99 does seem best...

Rich
 
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