V8 specs - anyone got them handy?

ewokracing

ewokracing

Active Member
I need to know

capacity, stroke, bore, valve sizes, camshaft profiles etc etc

or does anyone have a good link with all of this?

I also need to know the SD1 head specs.

thanks!
 
I have a Haynes manual to hand:
Capacity: 3258cc (215 cu in)
Bore: 88.9mm (3.5")
Stroke: 71.12mm (2.8")
Inlet valve: 38mm (1.5") app
Exhaust valve: 33.3mm (1.31") app
Valve timing:
Inlet opens: 30 deg btdc
Inlet closes: 75 deg abdc
Inlet duration: 285 deg.
Inlet peak:112.5 deg.
Ex opens: 68 deg bbdc
Ex closes: 37 deg atdc
Ex duration: 285 deg.
Ex peak: 105.5 deg btdc.
Valve lift: 9.9mm (0.39")
Don't have an SD1 manual handy but I'll have a look when I get home.
 
swedes2.jpg


SD-1 heads have the casting number ERC 0216 ( if you need to ID these) Valves are larger than the P6B; Inlet valves went from 38mm (P6B) to 40mm (SD-1), exhaust from 33mm to 34mm diameter

An improved oiling system on the SD1 resulted in valve stem seals being fitted to the SD1 ( P6B's don't have 'em )
and single valve springs on SD1 heads

Pushrod lengths won't differ from P6B to SD1 ( or the Buick 215 )

Cam profile didn't change from P6B to SD1 with the exception of certain models of SD1 Vitesse

GW
 
thanks GW

after the dyno day last week, I think I've decided to pull the original engine and keep it safe and build up a range rover/p6b/sd1 hybrid of some sort for some fun. I was wondering what a p6b/sd1 combination would make power wise (I'm playing with Desktop Dyno to get some figures).
 
http://www.classicroverforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=8190

It's quite expensive to build a performance Rover V8; tho' with the value of the US$ dollar right now, sourcing parts ex-USA might work All the books recommend starting with a later cross-bolted engine; built stronger than earlier blocks + pretty much everything P6 or SD-1 will bolt on Pictured: an early 3.9 LandRover Discovery block, which can be drilled + tapped for X-bolting, later still the factory did it

http://www.aluminumv8.com specialize in the Rover/Buick 215 + have done since these were New:
http://www.thewedgeshop.com are good too

There are advantages to putting SD1 heads on a P6B, not a wild slap-in-the-face difference, but enough gain to be noticeable

Good luck!

GW

crossbolt2.jpg

crossbolt1.jpg
 
Hi GW,

An improved oiling system on the SD1 resulted in valve stem seals being fitted to the SD1 ( P6B's don't have 'em )
and single valve springs on SD1 heads
Click to expand...

just wondering/curious what the improvement was to the oiling system the SD1 had over the P6B's, was it in the heads themselves delivery to the rocker shaft assembly that neccessitated stem seals to be fitted or uprated oil pump?

Also I came across this US manufacturer of pistons for the Rover as "Aussie" dollar is pretty favourable with the US dollar at the moment; http://www.egge.com

They gave me a price of US$368.55 for a set of pistons and US$49.16 for a ring set plus US$116.20 for shipping to Oz. I'll ask for a picture to see what they look like.

Scott
 
just wondering/curious what the improvement was to the oiling system the SD1 had over the P6B's, was it in the heads themselves delivery to the rocker shaft assembly that neccessitated stem seals to be fitted or uprated oil pump?
Click to expand...

SD1: An improved oil pump ( on an improved front cover ) When using SD1 heads on a P5B or P6B *remove* the oil seals, as the older oiling system doesn't get enough oil up to the rockers +valves + the seals will further restrict it

http://www.rosspistons.com/products/index.php#cid=3&acc_id=0&type_id=35&vehicle_id=0

Ross racing make pistons for the Rover, they'll be a little more expensive than Egge but made custom to your spec. + a superb product

http://www.youtube.com/user/pbvideonbm?blend=8&ob=5#p/u/0/tTp9nHMHlDM

JE Pistons are between Egge + Ross pricewise

http://www.jepistons.com/

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XK8G4crsOnA

GW
 
on the cheap

Yes, I was thinking of using a locally sourced block out of a rolled rangie or landie or possibly an old SD1 or p6 - there's a complete p6b motor with bw65 for $500 in the rover car club classifieds at the moment... very tempting.

If anything, I'll probably use factory parts for everything where I can, but get everything balanced or crack tested first.
 
Does anyone know the cfm (with @ inHg) and the manifold type (ie dual plane?) for the p6b?

Are they hydraulic flat tappets from factory?
 
Hello Geoff,

The Rover pent roof inlet manifold is a 180 degree dual plane low rise design. The surface of the lifter that makes contact with the camshaft lobe is when new very slightly convex in appearance. As far as names go though, they can be referred to as flat tappets. The OEM lifters used in all factory Rover V8 engines from 1967 till 2004 were made in the United States by the Diesel Equipment Co, Grand Rapids, Michigan.

Ron.
 
Re: V8 specs - anyone got them handy?

Postby TokyoP6B on Wed Aug 03, 2011 11:19 pm

just wondering/curious what the improvement was to the oiling system the SD1 had over the P6B's, was it in the heads themselves delivery to the rocker shaft assembly that neccessitated stem seals to be fitted or uprated oil pump?



SD1: An improved oil pump ( on an improved front cover ) When using SD1 heads on a P5B or P6B *remove* the oil seals, as the older oiling system doesn't get enough oil up to the rockers +valves + the seals will further restrict it
Click to expand...

I fitted SD1 heads without the piece of knowledge about removing the seals. I'm currently noticing that the top end very occasionally gets noisey when warm. Question is, is there a way i can improve the oil pressure without having to remove the valve seals? Fit a better oil pump? If so do you have any recommendations?

Thanks,

Rich
 
Hi Rich,

The seals are for the valve stems and are there to prevent oil from passing between the valve stem and the guide, which then ends up in the combustion chamber where it is burnt. I don't see that it would present a problem having valve stem oil seals fitted while still running the standard P6B oil pump. It won't make a difference in terms of oil delivery to the top end nor to oil pressure.

Ron.
 
Thanks Ron - I'll move this to the PAE thread so as not to put too much of my tangent on here :)

Rich.
 
I don't see that it would present a problem having valve stem oil seals fitted while still running the standard P6B oil pump
Click to expand...

I'll respectfully disagree with you on this one; one of the ( few ) design faults of the P5B/P6B is that they are known to run a little too dry in the top end and this was rectified with the improved SD1 setup; the increased oil to the top-end from an improved oil pump also required valve stem seals to reduce oil consumption Using SD1 heads on an otherwise unmodified P5B/P6B bottom end, with new valve stem seals in place, will starve oil to the guides As the oil both lubricates + cools, accelerated wear, or even the possibility of failure, will occur Leaving the seals off doesn't result in excessive or increased oil consumption when SD1 heads are used on a stock P5B/P6B Been there, done that

GW
 
The only problem with that IIRC is that the early seals were just a washer on the valve stem, not a cap on the valve guide, and they just used to break up and disappear in no time, so they're back as they were on the P5B/P6B anyway.
 
Fit a better oil pump? If so do you have any recommendations?
Click to expand...

Rich,


http://www.realsteel.co.uk/section1.pdf

Real Steel in the UK make an oil pump upgrade kit for the pre-SD1 ( our cars )

Section S1/8 part number AZ844

"This kit will cure the inherently low oil pressure and volume of the
Rover pre-SD1 V8 engine. The low pressure at idle and at higher rpm
starves bearings and other critical components. As the bearing, lifter
bore, oil pump and other clearances wear, the std pump- which was
marginal to begin with- is no longer sufficient. This kit will increase idle
pressure and high rpm pressure. Raises volume 40%"

GW
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top