V8 overhaul - How to judge the parts involved

[Barten]

I have just started to dismantle my V8 engine for my 3500s project. When i took the valves out of the cylinder head right hand side, water came out from valve no 2 from the front side. Does this mean that there is a waterleak in the head and I need new ones?

 

[harveyp6]

If that valve is an Inlet, on number 1,2,7 or 8, there's a good chance it's just coolant that has run into the port when you lifted the inlet manifold off. (Especially if you didn't drain the block.)
Otherwise it's possible that a badly blown head gasket has thrown coolant (as steam) up there, which has then condensed. Carefully check the old gaskets.
The heads don't normally suffer with cracking or porosity, unless someone has tried to "tune" them, as when opening up the ports, it's very easy to get too close to the water jackets.
If you've got P6 heads, I'd take the opportunity to upgrade to SD1 ones anyway, thus eliminating any possible problems that way.

 

[chrisyork]

I've not had to tackle this myself yet - but presumeably if its old enough to demand a full rebuild there must be some possibility of corrosion / sediment in the water spaces - its bound to have been run without the proper coolant at some stage. Does Harvey know how likely this is and what you do to prove and or rectify?

Chris

 

[harveyp6]

You may see signs of corrosion in the inlet manifold water passages, but its really in the heads and block around numbers 1, 2 7 & 8 cyls that cause the problems. If these are OK there are normally no other problems elsewhere. Heads are best upgraded to SD1 spec, early blocks (rope seal) are best avoided due to the seal and the high compression. Repairing the blocks involves removing the dowels, welding and skimming, but this can cause problems with deck height. Better to get a good block.