v8 brake pedal ????????????

S

spencer white

New Member
my recently purchased v8 series one has a few issues firstly i'm rebuilding the brake system, for some reason someone has adjusted the brake pedal it sits very low much lower than the accelerator pedal I tried to readjust it back to the correct position but the adjuster is seized solid so I've taken all the pedal box bolts out and removed the 2 bolts for the accelerator pedal the brake pedal unit is now loose but I cant see how to separate the master cylinder from the pedal it's a closed unit looking from inside the car I cant even see the rod that goes to the master cyl, do I have to remove the master cyl and disconnect it from that end???? thank you in advance.
 
You need to remove the locknut and unscrew the pushrod through the pedal. (The one you couldn't move to adjust the pedal height.)
 
that's what I was worried about it wont budge so I may have to try and cut it of if I undo the master cylinder and pull it forward will it give me enough room to cut through the rod between the cyl and bulkhead?? thank you.
 
spencer white said:
that's what I was worried about it wont budge so I may have to try and cut it of if I undo the master cylinder and pull it forward will it give me enough room to cut through the rod between the cyl and bulkhead?? thank you.
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All you could do is try to see if moving the m/cyl forwards allows you to see the pushrod, but even if it does, getting at it to cut it is going to be a right royal PITA I would think. You might be able to get the circlip out, then leave the pushrod behind when you take the m/cyl body out of the way, the pushrod should then go through the hole in the bulkhead.
 
thanks Harvey i'll try that as you say as long as I can get the master cyl off hopefully without any damage the rod will withdraw with the pedal box assembly i'll let you know tmrw lol cheers.
 
Just a thought. if the pedal adjustment has been wound to the limit of its travel, and the pedal is at the lowest point possible, are you sure you're turning the pushrod the right way to remove it?
 
The Rovering Member said:
Not that seized adjuster nuts are not possible on the pedals of course, but I've never come across one.
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Me neither, even on the last rusting hulk I removed one from. Now, who was it who owned that one?........Hmmmmmm.....The same bloke who tried to poach me using a P5B methinks.... :LOL:
 
spencer white said:
Harvey that's a bloody good point im sure I only tried to turn it clockwise but I cant remember will double check tmrw
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Clockwise is the way you need to go.
 
well Harvey I can tell you it was 100% seized solid I had to undo the master cyl move it as far forward as possible and cut through the adjusting rod where it fits to the master cyl with a steel blade by hand that was a fun 20 mins I can tell you lol, once of the car I got some heat on the adjusting rod and removed it from the pedal box so I now need another adjusting rod are they the same on all models?? I have ordered a repair kit for master cyl, when I refit it all with lots of copperslip it wont ever seize again thanks very much for your advice Harvey :D :D
 
There's always a first time. I told you cutting through it would be a PITA didn't I.. :LOL:

The pushrod is part of the master cyl and NSS so if you're renewing the cylinder you should get one, if not, AFAIK V8 auto and manual master cylinders are the same so a pushrod from either will sort you out.
 
it was a FPITA lol, I think i'll make one tmrw will save a lot of messing about, I assume they should be straight as the one on mine is bent, and I don't want a bent one im sure :D :D
 
well I put the pedal box back in this morning and fitted the newly made rod and the recon master cylinder adjusted the pedal so it was roughly in the correct position you can imagine how elated I was to find the pedal only travelled half way down the air was some what blue,I think I have the wrong master cyl fitted to my car it's not the same as my mates got in both his 3500s it looks similar but bigger in size more like a clutch master cyl on his 3500s, the piston in my master cylinder goes in around 1 1/4 inch im sure there should be more travel on the correct master cyl.?
 
Do you mean that you have that amount of pedal travel after it's fitted and bled, or that when you try to bleed it the pedal will only go halfway towards the floor?
 
I haven't started bleeding them yet I fitted one of the recon front calipers today and doing the other on Monday then fitting new pads then will bleed, at the moment I have put the recon master cyl back on, the pedal is in the correct position and when I push it it only goes halfway down around 3 inches of travel before it bottoms out, i know im putting new pads all round and doing the calipers etc so in theory everything should be fine and the pedal should only move an inch or so once blead, but i do feel somethings not right with my master cyl???
 
It does sound like it's the wrong master cylinder then, or the correct one that's been assembled incorrectly in such a way as to limit the travel to about half what it should be, or you've made the pushrod too long. All the ones I've bled back in the day had full pedal travel to the stop. More recent bleeding incidents (do you see what I did there?) with old master cylinders sticking and not returning when travelling further than they're used to mean I now bleed them using as little pedal travel as possible. I'd say the P6 is the easiest car to bleed the brakes on bar none, even on your own. (But excluding those hideous NADA and Federal things that don't count!)
 
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