Two types of Gear levers for BW35

GRTV8

Well-Known Member
#1
I have a flagged out spherical bush on my 72 P6b auto BW35.
In stead of just replacing the bush I plucked another gear selector from my spare parts shelf.
I notice the housing and bush has two pins holding the "ball" into the housing.
The two gear lever set ups look identical bar the two pin arrangement.
Is it ok to use this Two pin setup?
Asking this before I spend ages under the car with my fat hands trying to get into tight places and undo the selector knuckles.
Also whats the static line onto the front of the main housing do ?
thanks guys
 

GRTV8

Well-Known Member
#3
Thanks Harveyp6 -once again very greatful.
I'll probably have more questions for you as I move into the project.
Its a shit place to work on ones back with the side of the car jacked up.
Drive shaft and exhaust in the way and me being blessed with massif hands
 

GRTV8

Well-Known Member
#4
I have got the new unit in situ . Nice a smooth forward/back motion through the forward gears and I find I can only just get reverse with a bit of pushing and not getting park.
Do I need to screw out the connector at the bottom of the lever ? - If so how much -One turn two turns -
I tried using the old lever as a template - obviously not the thing to do as i had to screw the replacement gear lever end piece up quite a bit c/f the original.
Also the compensator rod is too short now to get back on the ball joint.
I dont want to enter into adjusting that rod before calling on your years of experience
thanks
 
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GRTV8

Well-Known Member
#5
Another question for you Harvey .
Ive also resurrected the old [original] gear shift unit with a new spherical bush that has the single peg going through the bush.
Its got the original lever to remote settings on it so if adjusting the new two peg unit proves too difficult -I will swap them over.
There is much less sideways movement with the two peg unit - so would prefer getting this one to co-operate.
#1 -why are some two peg units. Are they off a P5 ?
#2 - is it Ok to lubricate the bush/ ball on the lever. I have some chain oil with teflon [used on Stihl chain bars].
yours truly
Gerald
 
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harveyp6

Well-Known Member
#6
#1 -why are some two peg units. Are they off a P5 ?
P5B and P6B use the same two spherical seats, according to the type of gearlever assembly fitted, I can't say I remember a bush with 2 pins.


#2 - is it Ok to lubricate the bush/ ball on the lever. I have some chain oil with teflon [used on Stihl chain bars].
I always used something to lubricate them. I was recently told that the WM says to not use anything. I never had any problems lubricating them. so you can make your own choice.
 

harveyp6

Well-Known Member
#7
I have got the new unit in situ . Nice a smooth forward/back motion through the forward gears and I find I can only just get reverse with a bit of pushing and not getting park.
Do I need to screw out the connector at the bottom of the lever ? - If so how much -One turn two turns -
I tried using the old lever as a template - obviously not the thing to do as i had to screw the replacement gear lever end piece up quite a bit c/f the original.
Also the compensator rod is too short now to get back on the ball joint.
I dont want to enter into adjusting that rod before calling on your years of experience
thanks
I've never had to adjust the bottom of the lever. You need to adjust the length of the static rod so that it fits, with the compensator slider somewhere in the middle of its travel. To get PARK I'd suggest shortening the drop link. That's always worked for me, and providing you don't lose the ability to select "1" then you should be fine. If you do, then you may have to lengthen the bottom of the lever a bit, just to gain more throw in both directions, but I've never had to. Disconnect the drop link, move the selector lever on the box into PARK, put the gearlever in PARK, then adjust the drop link to fit.
 

GRTV8

Well-Known Member
#8
So much appreciated Harvey. Im glad I asked.
The two pin gear lever assembly is a mistery then . I pulled the assembly apart and it has two rebates to take the two pins and the bush has two protusions to fit into the recesses.
Sure gives a nice movement when shifting . No sideways movement at all.
The oil I will be using has a high boiling temp so shouldnt cook the bush from all the heat under there.
Bit of lube on the inside of the gear shaft where the nylon rod is and on the locating pin wont go amiss .
Thanks Hp6 you're a good man.
Gerald
 

GRTV8

Well-Known Member
#9
Bugger-me-days theres a two pin base plate on eBay - just listed
Rover P6 2200Auto, P6B 3500 BW 65 Support Plate for Gear Selector Lever, 599622
 

harveyp6

Well-Known Member
#10
I misinterpreted the part you were talking about. 599622 is different because of the different type of lever assemblies, stainless steel slider, (early), and nylon brush slider.
 

GRTV8

Well-Known Member
#11
I misinterpreted the part you were talking about. 599622 is different because of the different type of lever assemblies, stainless steel slider, (early), and nylon brush slider.
Would I be better off putting my old assembley back with the new bush ? Its got all the old settings and I wont have to piss around shifting rod lengths.
 

GRTV8

Well-Known Member
#13
Just make sure you buy the right one.[/QUOTE]

Are there different types ? [ I assume you are talking about the spherical bush]
 
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GRTV8

Well-Known Member
#15
Got me stumped - they look the same.
The "new" bush fits nice and snug. Its made out of a rubberised /nylon type material.
Ive nothing to compare it with as the crappy one was in bits and disintegrated.
 

GRTV8

Well-Known Member
#18
Well - crawled in under the car again and removed the two pin gearshift assembly and replaced it with the original one pin assembly and a new spherical bush. All good now. The linkages all meet up and I have a nice tight gear shift.
Happy chappy - thanks Harvey
 
#19
Hello there, I am a new member and have just experienced a problem with my gear selector. Car is a 73 P6 3500. The selector has suddenly got sloppy and won’t lock into P now. Is this the same problem as that discussed above? I am too ancient to climb under the car to look. Can the lever become disconnected if I drive to the nearest suitable workshop about 120 km away? I am in South Africa and any advice will be gratefully received.
 

harveyp6

Well-Known Member
#20
The selector has suddenly got sloppy and won’t lock into P now. Is this the same problem as that discussed above? Can the lever become disconnected if I drive to the nearest suitable workshop about 120 km away?
It does sound like it's the same as the previous problem. If the spherical seat breaks into small enough pieces that drop out ISTR that the lever can drop downwards and then you can't select gears.
 
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