wayne champion
Member
hi anyone know the torque settings for the above please when i took them off they didn't seem tight so want to get them right also is there a tightening sequence for the inlet manifold thanks in advance wayne
torque settings for rocker covers and inlet manifold
- Thread starter wayne champion
- Start date
wayne champion
Member
thanks anyone know the rocker cover torque settings i also will be using a rubber gasket
rovergrown
New Member
There isn't a torque setting for rocker covers, just make sure there screwed down tight. Use some blue hylomar or similar on gaskets as well. I'm not keen on the rubber sort and prefer the cork ones, but each to their own.
classicalgreen
Active Member
ALL screws and bolts.nuts WILL have manufactures torque settings .yes even rocker covers! ( nearly 40 years in car industry quality control in a major car company plus engineering background.. my job actually involved checking ALL torques when stripping and rebuilding engines . rocker covers included . however where Rover used cork gaskets I am unsure if it ever used rubber type . the engine itself may have used rubber in other builds later on e.g. landrover. as a personal preference I would use rubber when possible ( silicone )
correctly used cork gaskets with correct torques and applied in RIGHT order and stages where needed ( not all screws just etc need 'stages' ) ought ensure we have no issues.
I have used hylomar blue too but only when I have encountered malformed or damaged parts ( covers etc) that had incorrect and improper sealing even with proper torque actions and a new seal /gasket/scored section causing leaks etc.
I too rarely ever use a torque meter on a rocker cover or spark plug! spark plugs being often critical not to over tighten ( come to that not leave loose either) if I get chance over weekend will check in workshop manual for sequence and torques if possible. meanwhile I use tried and tested process of starting in middle and tightening down in stages ! going in a clock wise or anti clockwise direction. in short working outwards and diagonally across. thus think of it as 'spreading' load on mating faces . it also tends to correct any small imbalances such as curved or twisted flanges . Hence why we have a torque 'pattern' . you can use wheel as example . one does not fully tighten one nut up an then follow around in e.g. next .then next etc . we apply some torque ideally small at first one nut .then go diagonally opposite do same. then repeat action . then start over applying next stage of torque .. you get the drift .
ps .tip for all spark plugs is to apply a nickel anti-seize compound when fitting ( or at least copper) using about enough to cover to full depth of thread around 50% of diameter of plug and approx 1/3rd up .thus when screwing in ..the compound gets evenly spread into all threads. this helps stop adhesion .corrosion and spalling etc
I think of it as mandatory . it is especially effective where we use plugs directly into aluminium and is now part of fitting instructions for plugs for 'new ' engines and old by said car company, to ALL its technicians ,mechanics and is in it's service manuals.
correctly used cork gaskets with correct torques and applied in RIGHT order and stages where needed ( not all screws just etc need 'stages' ) ought ensure we have no issues.
I have used hylomar blue too but only when I have encountered malformed or damaged parts ( covers etc) that had incorrect and improper sealing even with proper torque actions and a new seal /gasket/scored section causing leaks etc.
I too rarely ever use a torque meter on a rocker cover or spark plug! spark plugs being often critical not to over tighten ( come to that not leave loose either) if I get chance over weekend will check in workshop manual for sequence and torques if possible. meanwhile I use tried and tested process of starting in middle and tightening down in stages ! going in a clock wise or anti clockwise direction. in short working outwards and diagonally across. thus think of it as 'spreading' load on mating faces . it also tends to correct any small imbalances such as curved or twisted flanges . Hence why we have a torque 'pattern' . you can use wheel as example . one does not fully tighten one nut up an then follow around in e.g. next .then next etc . we apply some torque ideally small at first one nut .then go diagonally opposite do same. then repeat action . then start over applying next stage of torque .. you get the drift .
ps .tip for all spark plugs is to apply a nickel anti-seize compound when fitting ( or at least copper) using about enough to cover to full depth of thread around 50% of diameter of plug and approx 1/3rd up .thus when screwing in ..the compound gets evenly spread into all threads. this helps stop adhesion .corrosion and spalling etc
I think of it as mandatory . it is especially effective where we use plugs directly into aluminium and is now part of fitting instructions for plugs for 'new ' engines and old by said car company, to ALL its technicians ,mechanics and is in it's service manuals.
rovergrown
New Member
I stand corrected, but I've never worked in the car industry, self taught and a lot of help from mates, I just make sure there tight,!
Neilr
Member
There is nothing in Rover WM regarding rocker cover screws. There is for inlet manifold bolts which is the figure I replied to earlier. If you have cork gaskets then it is important they are not over tightened as this will crush gaskets and they will leak. The rubber ones have metal inserts to stop crushing. Normally if there is a figure for rocker/cam covers it is normally quite low around 8-10 nm. Also the sequence I suggested came from same manual. I did not post out of the air!!!
wayne champion
Member
thankyou all i guessed it would be around 8nm but wasn't sure i have a habit of doing things up to tight so wanted to be sure regards wayne