tinkle tinkle

mr blister

mr blister

Member
hi all only just back online after the big move, p6 left glasgow to come to north devon and apart from alternaitor going 3 miles out from the farm i moved to the old girl did great!!! sat at 70 all the way. now for a while now my 2000tc when warmed up has a tinkle sound, it's metalic sounding a bit like a bell rining but slightly muffeld. i have had the inlet manifold off and exhaust manifold off to change the alternaitor and had a good look about tightend up a couple of lose bolts put it all back together and i thaught i had sorted it but then nope its back any ideas? also anyone north devon area i could hangout with and talk rover? also it only does it at 700-1200 revs then goes

cheers all
chris
 
Welcome to Wurzel land Chris!

On the assumption that your recent works have eliminated the traditional TC zing points in the carburettor heat shield areas, how about front timing chain rattle. When just starting my recollection of them is that you could describe the noise as you have? ONly solution is to get someone else to play with the throttle while you listen - it should be obvious pretty quickly whether the noise is from around that area.

North Devon isn't completely out of range for the Bristol crew - that is self and Pilkie at least?

Chris



Edited By chrisyork on 1196294955
 
Mine was making that kind of noise just before the bottom end went. Could have been the broken flex plate, did not sound like big ends. I also on my car thought it was the heat shield. Was near impossible to work out the location of the sound.

Can you make an mp3 of it and post it? I'll let you know if it sounded like mine. I assume yours is manual being a TC, so no flex plate to go on it.
 
staring to think it could be one of the chains, doesnt do it pulling away and is only there at tick over after the car warmsup after 2-3 mile.the location of the sound is realy hard to pipoint seems to travel all over the place. would you sugest new chains and tentioners? how big a job? still learning
 
Most 4 cylinder engines jangle to a certain extent. Most can be quietened with a new tensioner and preferrably a new set of big end and main bearings as when worn they cause a drop in oil pressure to the tensioner. Other causes can be a broken chain guide or the oil plug (if fitted) missing from the tensioner. Don't even dream of taking on a set of chains unless you are sure you know what you're doing.



Edited By harveyp6 on 1196374934
 
mr blister said:
the location of the sound is realy hard to pipoint seems to travel all over the place.
Click to expand...
That don't sound good to me, mine seemed to do that. Can you get the oil pressure checked? Mine may have been rattling because the big ends were about to let go so low oil pressure. If that's what the noise is. The adjusters extend quite a way out so I would have though the chain would have to be very stretched for there to be no adjustment left in them.

I wouldn't of said the timing chains were a hard job, just awkward and long if you want to do it with the engine still in. Mmm, maybe that makes it hard. ???

I'm a little worried that I may have scared you "mr blister", I hope I'm wrong and its just something on the body work rattling, like a loose exhaust mount.

Guess first step is to measure the oil pressure.
 
oil pressure when cold is 50 and stays there while i am driving drops to about 25-30 when i am stood still and on tickover but comes backup. was doing the timing today for the first time and one thing i did notice was when the strobe was going, the marking on the cam moved up and down form the pointer wasnt very steady is this chain related or just need a new dizzy (it does have a little play)?
cheers for the help folks
 
Its driven buy the bottom chain via the oil pump so could be the chain doing that. The manual says 50 -> 60 lb/sq.in at 30 mph so sounds OK to me. But I've not seen one of these engines running with a pressure gage on so don't know for sure.
 
Both the bottom chain or the distributor can cause the timing to "float".

The chain tensioners do come out a long way but I've still had one where the slipper/plunger fell out while the engine was running because the chain was so slack.

These engines are supposed to run a high pressure and that's why if you fit the wrong oil pressure switch the light will stay on. IIRC the proper one doesn't put the light out until about 25/30lbs.
 
thanks alot guys for the help on this one, think will do both the chains and a new dizzy just to be safe and take it from there
many thanks

chris
 
just sorted the tinkle noise it was coming from the top tensioner it has also sorted the floating timing will need a new set of chains as its now at full length but just now is ok
thanks for the advice everyone!!!!
 
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