Hello again guys, got my holley fitted and plumbed in now apart from throttle cable! All seems to run ok BUT can't seem to get tickover less than 1000, mixture seems ok and doesn't make much difference anyway, throttle linkage isn't connected to anything so can't be that! Any ideas? Timing maybe?
Tickover too high
- Thread starter jetthedog
- Start date
Hello Jett,
Timing is certainly a possibility, but unless you have a timing light etc I would not make an adjustment just yet, especially given that the throttle cable has not been connected. Your engine is no doubt breathing better with the different manifold and carburettor, so that would certainly contribute to an increase in engine speed. Does the Holley have throttle adjustment screws? With the SU you can adjust these independent of the throttle linkages.
Ron.
Timing is certainly a possibility, but unless you have a timing light etc I would not make an adjustment just yet, especially given that the throttle cable has not been connected. Your engine is no doubt breathing better with the different manifold and carburettor, so that would certainly contribute to an increase in engine speed. Does the Holley have throttle adjustment screws? With the SU you can adjust these independent of the throttle linkages.
Ron.
Hello Jett,
Well in that case it is likely to one or both of the areas I listed above. You could set up a dwell tachometer and then drop the rpm to within the range of 600 to 650rpm, connect your throttle cable and then go from there. The factory setting for ignition timing on the 3.5 litre engine ranged from TDC to 6 degrees BTDC at 600rpm. Such low settings were set to accomodate all manner of driving styles within the boundaries of the fuel octane measure that was available at the time. It will be a matter of trial and error, but you can run up to 14 to 16 degrees of advance on a 3.5 which will not only reduce engine operating temperature through improved engine operating efficiency, but will also see a reduction in fuel consumption for the same reason. The total mechanical advance should not exceed 36 degrees so you will need to take this into consideration when making the initial setting.
Is your Holley the 390? I have just found I have setting up information for this model, so I'll post if applicalble.
Ron.
Well in that case it is likely to one or both of the areas I listed above. You could set up a dwell tachometer and then drop the rpm to within the range of 600 to 650rpm, connect your throttle cable and then go from there. The factory setting for ignition timing on the 3.5 litre engine ranged from TDC to 6 degrees BTDC at 600rpm. Such low settings were set to accomodate all manner of driving styles within the boundaries of the fuel octane measure that was available at the time. It will be a matter of trial and error, but you can run up to 14 to 16 degrees of advance on a 3.5 which will not only reduce engine operating temperature through improved engine operating efficiency, but will also see a reduction in fuel consumption for the same reason. The total mechanical advance should not exceed 36 degrees so you will need to take this into consideration when making the initial setting.
Is your Holley the 390? I have just found I have setting up information for this model, so I'll post if applicalble.
Ron.
Hello Jett,
Ok,..here we go...
Setting up...Basic jet setting for standard specification Rover V8....
Primary main jets : 52
Secondary main jet (when secondary metering block is fitted) : 55
Accelerator pump discharge nozzle : 25
Accelerator pump cam (check in positions 1 & 2) : Red
Power valve : 6.5
Secondary diaphragm spring (medium) : standard, plain coloured
Float levels : Both must be set to factory specification...ie when the externally adjustable fuel bowls having fuel dribble out the sight plug holes when the car is rocked side to side and parked on level ground. Float levels MUST be set before tuning is carried out. If no fuel dribbles out, the float level needs to be raised. If fuel runs out, then the float level is too high and needs to be lowered. In both cases undo the adjustment screw on the top and at the front of each fuel bowl and turn the adjustment nut clockwise to raise the fuel level and anti-clockwise to lower it. It is critical that the float levels are exactly right!!
Idle adjustment screw : Turn the primary idle adjustment screw so that the primary barrels are open no more than 1/2 a turn from the fully closed position. If the engine runs too slow like this, remove the carburettor and adjust the secondary butterflies so that they are admitting more air. This might have to be done a few times to get it right, but with the engine idling at the requred rpm and the primary barrels closed as much as they reasonably can be, the primary butterflies will sweep past the progression slots to the maximum extent possible, resulting in optimum acceleration without hesitation.
Once the idle adjustment has been finalised, the accelerator pump needs to be adjusted and that is the next part.
Ron.
Ok,..here we go...
Setting up...Basic jet setting for standard specification Rover V8....
Primary main jets : 52
Secondary main jet (when secondary metering block is fitted) : 55
Accelerator pump discharge nozzle : 25
Accelerator pump cam (check in positions 1 & 2) : Red
Power valve : 6.5
Secondary diaphragm spring (medium) : standard, plain coloured
Float levels : Both must be set to factory specification...ie when the externally adjustable fuel bowls having fuel dribble out the sight plug holes when the car is rocked side to side and parked on level ground. Float levels MUST be set before tuning is carried out. If no fuel dribbles out, the float level needs to be raised. If fuel runs out, then the float level is too high and needs to be lowered. In both cases undo the adjustment screw on the top and at the front of each fuel bowl and turn the adjustment nut clockwise to raise the fuel level and anti-clockwise to lower it. It is critical that the float levels are exactly right!!
Idle adjustment screw : Turn the primary idle adjustment screw so that the primary barrels are open no more than 1/2 a turn from the fully closed position. If the engine runs too slow like this, remove the carburettor and adjust the secondary butterflies so that they are admitting more air. This might have to be done a few times to get it right, but with the engine idling at the requred rpm and the primary barrels closed as much as they reasonably can be, the primary butterflies will sweep past the progression slots to the maximum extent possible, resulting in optimum acceleration without hesitation.
Once the idle adjustment has been finalised, the accelerator pump needs to be adjusted and that is the next part.
Ron.