Sudden difficulty getting in gear. Help!

M

Moon Rover!

Member
Hello Folks, I welcome any advice and help please. 2 weeks ago whilst out for jaunt in our 1973 Rover 2000sc Rosie the Rover. I started experiencing difficulty in getting 1st gear at a stand, later found out the same problem had presented itself in getting into reverse. On further investigation, the conclusion was that the slave cylinder was leaking a small amount of fluid in the rubber boot. The slave cylinder had,had new rubber seals 5 years ago, so it was high time it was replaced. On the face of it this is the original slave cylinder and therefore 41 years old. :oops: I have therefore replaced both the Master cylinder and Slave cylinder along with a new plastic red pipe. I set everything as per the Haynes workshop manual. Much to my horror it is now even worse!! :shock: :? I now have to stop the engine, to move into 1st or reverse in order to move the car. The clutch pedal fully depressed on moving the clutch pedal no more than 15 to 20 mm the clutch is fully engaged. On getting under the car and watching the outside lever on the gearbox. This is moving 5mm which I don't think is enough to separate the the clutch plates??? If this isn't enough travel how much should I expect to see the external clutch lever move rearwards. All the measurements were taken: Clutch pedal height 170 mm 6 3/4inch. Pedal stop bolt set, so as not over stroke the Master cylinder piston. With clutch lever arm pulled to the rear of the car, there is 10mm freeplay at the end slave cylinder piston rod. and 25 thou between slave cylinder piston and circlip. I have bled the system at least 6 times to no avail. The clutch was renewed 5 years ago and the car has done a further 3500 miles since without issue.Until now. The gearbox has enough oil in Castrol 20/50. At a standstill all gears can be obtained reserve with a polite pull, this is with engine off.I don't want use until I get this put right. I don't want to wreck a good gearbox. Thankyou in anticipation. Sincerely Moon Rover (Kevin) Keeping on Rovering
 
You need to set the drop arm on the box so that when it's pushed fully rearwards the bottom is one spline forward. Then set the brake pedal height so the bottom of the pedal is 6&7/8" vertically above the metal floor. Then set the clutch pedal so it's level with the brake. Then wind the stop bolt all the way in towards the floor. Lengthen the pushrod on the drop arm, and then gradually shorten it until with the pedal on the stop, the piston is just touching the circlip in the slave cylinder. Then wind the pedal stop bolt up one turn, and check that you have about 25 thou between the piston and the circlip.
 
Hello Harveyp6, Thankyou for your informative answer. I will do what you have wrote and let you know how things go. Sincerely Moon Rover! Kevin. Keeping on Rovering. :D :D
 
Hello HarveyP6, I followed your instructions, and with help from a good friend we sorted the clutch problem out! :D :D :D Let me explain: It was found that the circlip retaining the push rod into the rear of the Master cylinder had come dislodged and allowing the piston to come part way out of the bore,thus allowing the fluid to leak away. :roll: Once this was put right with a more substantial circlip,and reinstalled. The clutch pedal was reset as per your measurements, then down to the slave cylinder, again following your instructions. NB. The pushrod we found not be the correct one,as this was too long on the threads by 8mm. This was cut back the 8mm. All the measurements you gave were spot on after adjustment. :D :D The clutch pedal is now nicely weighted and all gears can be selected quietly. Just one minor point the clutch now appears to "bite" with the clutch pedal further up its stroke. Roughly between the toeboard and the end of pedal stroke. The clutch "freeplay?" at the pedal is about 15mm to 20mm. I really am indebted to you for your help. Thankyou!! 8) 8) 8) Best regards Moon Rover! Kevin Keeping on Rovering
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top