starting woes.

B

Beaser

New Member
Hello all. I've just finished rebuilding my engine with it's SD1 heads and all new shiny bits. However the bloody thing won't start. I'm getting a spark but the plugs are still dry. There is fuel in the filter and in the float chambers. Could it be that there is not enough fuel in the tank? Also the oil pressure light doesn't go out. I'm told that it's best to prime the pump by taking the distributor out and spin it with a drill. Has anyone else heard this? Any clues greatfully received.
 
This method should be successful in priming the oil system;
Remove the distributor.
Take the oil pump cover off and pack the pump fully with Vaseline and replace.
Fill oil filter with as much oil as possible before fitting and check sump oil level is correct.
Use Priming tool on the end of a drill to prime the pump fully before refitting distributor.


If the ignition is turned on when priming the oil pressure gauge and oil light can be observed by a helper.
Removing the distributor before packing the pump means that the Vaseline in the oil pump won't be disturbed, hence giving it the best chance of priming.

Hope this helps.
 
Beaser,
assuming fuel is coming through then suspect timing. Check static ignition timing. Distributor could well be 180° out.
Re: oil pump - if you pack it with Vaseline that should be sufficient - Can't see the point of packing it with Vaseline AND priming with an electric drill.
If (when!) she starts the cam followers will make an awful row until they fill with oil - I was told to run the engine at 2,500 rpm for 2 minutes (which is a brave thing to do!) but the noise should stop before this. If it doesn't stop the engine (you MAY have an oil feed problem) so try re-priming the pump.
Hope this helps.
Regards, John.
 
JohnGlinn(Cardiff&District) said:
Beaser,
assuming fuel is coming through then suspect timing. Check static ignition timing. Distributor could well be 180° out.
Re: oil pump - if you pack it with Vaseline that should be sufficient - Can't see the point of packing it with Vaseline AND priming with an electric drill.
Click to expand...
Agree about the timing possibility John, but the point of packing it with Vaseline and priming it with a drill is to get oil to all the bearing surfaces without the engine turning over.

Any other way and the engine components are moving without an oil supply for a time, until the pump has built enough pressure.
 
Ah. The old pack it with vaseline ploy. I didn't do that. Oh well, there's a wee job for tomorrow evening. I don't keep vaseline around the house usually (ahem). The timings ok but I will get the connections to the coil checked. Thanks guys
 
Its basically just a rod with a small diameter at one end for the drill chuck, and a drive similar to the distributor at the other.
 
Just use a flat screwdriver blade with the handle taken off in a drill to prime the oil, before you replace the dizzy- works ok. Had to turn it over for about 2 minutes last time I rebuilt one.
 
Yes, I've been told it can be a bit of a job sometimes. The same guy also told me that when doing an oil change it's best to do the oil first then the filter. Anyone know of that?
 
Yep, I've always done it that way too. Sump drain, refill then the new filter.
Again, filling the new oil filter with new oil before fitting.
 
I liked the idea of the tool for spinning the pump but made one out of a piece of 15mm copper pipe that just slipped over the pump drive and allowed me to stick the screwdriver down the middle. Still wouldn't start though. Decided that enough was enough and I'd better double check. When i took it off the road, I set No1 cylinder to tdc and made a mark on the rotor arm and a mark on the distributor. I didn't notice the mark that was already on the distributor approx 180 degrees from mine. So a few lead changes later, she started right up. Happy although slightly embarresed.
 
I bought a recon chevette engine once, and couldn't get it to start. Checked all the ignition leads etc and it was fine, but still wouldn't start. I was sure it was ignition related, so went right back to basics and checked rotor position against valve openings. Turned out the recon company had fitted the dizzy drive wrong !

Richard
 
It's a common mistake, happened to me years ago so it's one of the first things I suspect now!
Glad my suspicions proved correct. Have fun driving now.
Regards, John.
 
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