Squeak under load

Coppertop

Coppertop

New Member
Trying to find where my annoying squeak is coming from

(i left the wife at home so it aint her earings)

I have changed the trailing arm bushes & still got it?when you accelerate the squeak appears and is constant, ease off the fuel and it goes away. sound like its coming from rear ?

I am thinking it must be a bush thats had it, but which 1 presently thinking gear box mount, prop shaft ??

any ideas please sons wedding in a few week and i would prefer the car not to have the budgie present if possible.

cheers

Keith
 
Rub off a little candle wax on the fan belt with the engine running and try it!
Also could be dry alternator bearing,spray a little WD40 around the bearing area,normally stops it if thats the cause.
A supension squeak will really only happen when the car is bouncing,more of a sprung squeak,squeak,squeak!!
If it is a constant squeeeeek,that comes under throttle load and goes when you let off then its a going round squeak!!
Some noises are notorious for sounding from anywhere but where the fault actually is.
 
I agree. I have been trying to find my intermittent squeak under load for a while now. Suggestions on the forum ran from brake pads to clutch throwout bearing.Today it was happening as I was driving into the garage. Definitely sounded like the prop shaft U-joint. My garage had the prop shaft disconnected when I had my rear trans seal done. Appears I am missing some bushings etc. Those parts are coming this week so I will have them do the U joint while they are at it
 
tried engine belt and alternator but squeak is still there
its definatley a squeak - squeak - squeak so it sounds like it a going round job
can you tell which UJ it could be they all seem fine
 
A suggestion that has worked for me in the past!
if its a going round squeak squeak,rather than an up and down squeak squeak,jack the back up support it securely,chock the front wheels,stick it in gear and allow the wheels to turn,see if it is squeaking,then with a can of wd40 squirt the uj's 1 by 1 till it goes or gets better,thus pinpointing the duff one!
NB!!! Its probably best done with a mate at the controls to put in gear and for emergency braking if req!! :wink:
 
As I said,A suggestion that has worked for me in the past!
When a uj is going round and not in alignement due to the wheels being lower,this exagerates the angle and can id a stiff,or squeaky one.
Anythings worth a go innit!! :wink:
 
Does indeed sound very much like a uni joint.

Keith, how many miles has your Rover covered? Have the joints ever been replaced before?

Ron.
 
Ron

I have had the car 10 months with a patched previous history nothing saying any uj replacements made

Mileage serviced up to 48k in 1986 so little use from 1972 to 1986 yhen dissapeared from radar
20 years later resurfaced with 64k on clock in 2006
Present milage 67k in 2010

she needed a lot of TLC and work to get her back to life

Keith
 
Hello Keith,

More than likely then all the uni joints are the originals from 1972. It would be advantageous therefore I would think to replace all 6 as a matter of course. The rear wheel bearings will last essentially forever under normal circumstances, unless the hubs have been submerged in water, so they are not the likely culprit.

Another good reason to change them is that,..should a joint seize, then one or more cups may start to rotate within the actual yoke of the tail/half shaft. This can lead to the yoke being damaged and as such a replacement shaft will be required or the effected shaft removed, the yoke cut off and another welded in its place. Much better to avoid this at all costs, and replace all the joints before it happens.

Ron.
 
SydneyRoverP6B said:
The rear wheel bearings will last essentially forever under normal circumstances
Click to expand...

That's good to know. When I strip my rear down for painting and to replace some 'old' bushes I was going to do the half shaft UJ's and bearings whilst it was in bits, but guess I could skip these. Of cause will be done after my welding is done. ;)
 
richarduk wrote,...
That's good to know. When I strip my rear down for painting and to replace some 'old' bushes I was going to do the half shaft UJ's and bearings whilst it was in bits, but guess I could skip these
Click to expand...

Hello Richard,

When you withdraw the half shafts, the feel of the hubs as you turn them slowly by hand will provide a guide as to their state of health. I fitted new sealed universal joints into my half shafts in 1990 and another new set went in during 2008. Two uni joints were showing distress,...both the outer joints closest to the hub, and both exhibited stiffness in one or more planes. They had covered 123,000 miles (200,000km) over the 18 years, while the hubs still felt as smooth as butter just as they had 18 years earlier.

The original factory fitted sealed units in my tail shaft lasted for 12 years and saw 50,650 miles (81,500km) of use before play could be detected. The replacements had grease nipples, so I would give them a fill every 3000 miles or so. With universal joints, you can never grease them too often, and this pair ran for the next 21 years seeing just over 155,000 miles (250,000km) of service.

I continue to grease the sliding joint in the tailshaft every 2000 miles or so which now has a total of 231,000 miles (372,000km) on it. Once it reaches half a million miles, I'll probably retire it and fit a new one... :p

Ron.
 
Greased half shafts UJ and squeak has practically disappeared so its definatley a UJ

(new ones on order)

Also noticed that diff had little oil in - it took half a litre no problems which wouldnt have been helping, dont know capacity but if i remeber right you fill till it drips out of fill point.

Clutch started playing up today again reservoir was nearly dry so most probably an air lock will refill and bleed tomorrow .

Its always the case when you need the car another problem arises - hope we can sort for Saturday "My lads wedding*
 
Sorted Clutch probs seals had gone in slave cylinder (fitted new slave cylinder) looks like all systems go for Saturday

it was a chuff to bleed so took it back off and bled it holding it vertical 2 minutes and it was done

cheers

Keith
 
I've disconnected a drive shaft at the brake disc to replace the totally wrecked UJ, but am having difficulty removing the joint. Is it a bench job, or can I (please) do it in situ?
 
Reckon that would be a damn sight easier if you had it on the work bench. I had mine in a vice and it still wasn't easy pressing out the old UJ and fitting the new ones without damaging the delicate needle bearings. Wouldn't want to attempt that beneath the car, myself. Not that I'm a competent mechanic, :LOL: it must be said, wonder what more knowledgeable and experienced forum users will add...
 
Hi Phil,

You can't really do it in situ as you either need a vise and a suitable drift to press out and push in the new joint or a large hammer and of course a vise to support and hold everything. If the uni joint had started to seize there is also the possibility of damage to the yoke which will make fitting the new one even more challenging. If the new joint comes with a grease nipple, make sure you have it facing away from the disk.

Ron.
 
Thanks guys, I've now got the shaft out :) & realise there's no way it could be done in situ - I'm having all on with it in the vice!
However, it will be worth the effort as the UJ at the hub end is
difficult to move so will also be replaced while I'm at it. Might do the lower link rear bush as well. 8)
 
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