Slow to start P6 V8

thamesroverp6 said:
My battery used to drain and I had to disconnect the lead, but I found the problem, the boot switch for the light needed adjustment as it wouldn't go off.
I found that by removing the bung in the boot floor seeing light.
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I have put an isolator terminal on mine cost about £5 from ebay just unscrew knob part of clamp and battery disconnects. Also useful as an immobiliser as screw can be take out and put in pocket.
 
I have just had a pertronix electronic module fitted, timed at the crank and still it takes a squirt of ( "start -u- bastard") to get it going when cold....hmmmm
It has an electric fuel pump that goes tic tic tic , I let it tic for 10 sec then try to start, but.....the dwell has not been checked yet, maybe that needs attention....but....
Peter
 
I practice the pumps does stop if you run the ignition but don't start for a few seconds with only the occasional "tick".

You are also very clearly reminded if you run out of fuel.
 
Cafcpete said:
So even though the float should close, that dosent stop the pump running? Isn't the return just for over flow from the floats?
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The fuel doesn't flow through into the float chambers, and then out down the return to the tank, the floats close the needles in the float chamber as the level rises, and any excess bypasses the carb back to the tank. There is a restrictor in the return, which may slow an electric pump, but it won't stop it altogether.
 
So is it worth having a regulator in the supply? When I got Charlotte she had one fitted, when the fuel pump was replaced last year we left it off, touch wood haven't had any issues and surprisingly, compared to what others are saying, she starts first time.

Mick
 
With the standard mechanical pump and standard carbs there's no need for a regulator. If you fit an electric pump and that runs at the correct pressure then there's no need for one then either.
 
harveyp6 said:
With the standard mechanical pump and standard carbs there's no need for a regulator. If you fit an electric pump and that runs at the correct pressure then there's no need for one then either.
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Hi Harvey, thank you for all your very useful and informative information on our old cars, its always good to read your replys.
Its amazing how one question is asked and it leads to another that concerns us all and the answers come flying in.
What is the preferred operation pressure for a Rover electric fuel pump, mine may be over the hill and I am thinking of a possible replacement?

Peter
 
thamesroverp6 said:
My battery used to drain and I had to disconnect the lead, but I found the problem, the boot switch for the light needed adjustment as it wouldn't go off.
I found that by removing the bung in the boot floor seeing light.
Click to expand...

just a thought, have you checked you fridge lately?
 
thamesroverp6 said:
My battery used to drain and I had to disconnect the lead, but I found the problem, the boot switch for the light needed adjustment as it wouldn't go off.
I found that by removing the bung in the boot floor seeing light.
Click to expand...

Thanks I will try to see if that's the problem with mine using my phone camera.
 
I have a Facet electric pump and have had flooding issues at anything over 3 psi despite replacing needle valves and seats.
HIF6
 
Hi Ron
Yep an odd one for sure, used Viton tipped needles and new seats. Could not keep one carb from flooding at anything over 3 psi. Have not run out of fuel at WOT at 3 psi so all is good.
 
always have to use choke on mine .even when hot outside! then it wont idle correctly until 'warm' trying to get off starting line with cold engine is impossible as it stalls as soon as drive engaged. once running few mins its possible to lower choke setting to around 12-1500.. then with luck I can just about get it into drive without stalling .once on road it seem ok after few mins driving.
 
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