Sleeving rear calipers

Tor

Tor

Well-Known Member
Hi all,

The machine shop at the local uni has agreed to have a go at fitting sleeves to my rear calipers. Two issues arise: We assume an adhesive will be needed even if the press fit comes out good, in order to prevent leaks between the body and the sleeve. That being the case, the guys figure Loctite Threadlocker will do. Is this the case even at temperatures, or can anyone recommend a decent, 'universal' product (that I can likely find here)?

Cheers,

Tor
 
Are you talking about sleeving the hydraulic piston or the CUP which is the big cylinder thingy which corrodes and pushes the pad out?

Colin
 
Hello Tor,

Are there no brake businesses that have the experience in carrying out this type of work in the city? Alternatively, could not the fellows in the machine shop speak with a brake place and confirm the correct procedure?

Brakes in my view are far too important to be making assumptions.

Ron.
 
In our parts the savvy technicians that know how to repair something are mostly retired, so good information is hard to come by. Everybody's happy to say what they think, but I've been on the phone with probably eight different brake specialists across the country about sleeving + silicone fluid and I get plenty of conviction, only not about the same thing.

Epoxy seems to be the thing to go for though (see project thread). I'm presently googling JB Weld vs. brake fluid and so far it's looking OK 8)
 
Ask The Rovering Member, I fitted a pair of calipers he had sleeved, and AFAIK there was nothing needed to hold the sleeves in place as they were the correct interference fit in the machined caliper so none was necessary, and no leaks either. If they are made and fitted correctly there's no way the hydraulic pressure in the braking system would be enough to force its way between the sleeve and the caliper, if it was, it would force its way past the piston seal under hard braking. As for the holes for the fluid, if you drill them into the sleeve before fitting, you risk them not being in line when pressed in, but if you look at the piston itself, the bottom of it is tapered, so there's no need for the sleeve to go all the way to the bottom of the bore anyway.
 
I'm not aware that any sort of adhesive was used in the calipers I have had done. I'm sure that if it had been, my friendly, local & very experienced semi-retired engineer would have told me.
The only thing he has used adhesive on in any of the jobs he's done for me is on the inlet manifold take-off point for the vacuum gauge in Bruiser.
 
Ah, right. Mine aren't an interference fit... They slip right in nice and snug and will need some form of adhesive. The blokes also drilled the bore down to where the taper starts, so I'll have to drill the fluid holes in the sleeves once fitted properly (and clean up any filings). That's pretty straightforward.
 

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Nope, I agree 100% with Harvey above. It seems you have not been provided with a solution.

The sleeve should be pre-drilled and pressed in as an interference fit.

I would seriously advise you not to fit these calipers to your car in their present state.
 
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