Signs Of Impending Drive Shaft Failure
- Thread starter SydneyRoverP6B
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unstable load
Well-Known Member
As long as they were regularly greased it would make a difference, I'd think. They tend to be
forgotten down underneath the car and the grease gets spun out of the needles after a while
so regreasing would prolong their life considerably.
It's only in the modern consumer based world that they have removed the grease nipples in a
quest to save manufacturing costs and service charges and I'll bet if anyone bothered to do the
research they'd find that consumption of all those "low maintenance" type items has gone up
because of attrition failures.
forgotten down underneath the car and the grease gets spun out of the needles after a while
so regreasing would prolong their life considerably.
It's only in the modern consumer based world that they have removed the grease nipples in a
quest to save manufacturing costs and service charges and I'll bet if anyone bothered to do the
research they'd find that consumption of all those "low maintenance" type items has gone up
because of attrition failures.
symes wrote,...
When you said a few couplings (uni joints) had been destroyed, if by destroyed you mean broken as a result of considerable stress through the loads imposed upon them, then yes, using sealed units is advantageous. Provided of course that they are sealed heavy duty units, and not just manufactured as greasable type, but without a grease nipple fitted.
If by destroyed you refer to joints having failed through ingress of moisture and insufficient lubrication, then in this case, greasable are definitely advantageous, especially if the sealed units employed the same grease seals as the greasable variety.
Ron.
When you said a few couplings (uni joints) had been destroyed, if by destroyed you mean broken as a result of considerable stress through the loads imposed upon them, then yes, using sealed units is advantageous. Provided of course that they are sealed heavy duty units, and not just manufactured as greasable type, but without a grease nipple fitted.
If by destroyed you refer to joints having failed through ingress of moisture and insufficient lubrication, then in this case, greasable are definitely advantageous, especially if the sealed units employed the same grease seals as the greasable variety.
Ron.
j_radcliffe
Active Member
Has anybody had a broken drive shaft with a Rover 2000 automatic? These might be the best parts cars to source replacements from, plus I drive one long distances around Australia when I head home, it would be very inconvenient if I broke a shaft in the middle of nowhere.
James.
James.
My dad reckons its the torque of the engine--and my right foot that causes most problem--however we but a set in there during the summer--and so far are holding-they seemed to be better quality than previous ones used--if/when these let go-will try greasable ones or will go Volvo axle and 4 bar links--my diff is fine before you think its that--its one my dad and myself machined to fit into p6 housing some tears ago as its LSD
unstable load
Well-Known Member
Quite the contrary, I'd think.....colnerov said:
Out of curiosity, did the shafts have the same failure rate back when servicing a car at a dealer/indy included
things like greasing joints and all those niceties that have seemingly fallen by the wayside in recent years?
Hi Ron,
The universal joints I am fairly sure were the originals, I think at the time the car had travelled about 100,000 miles but this is about 30 years ago when I used the car as my regular transport, so unfortunatley I don't have any photos but as I said, when I inspected all the other joints there was a "tell tale sign" of orange/red dust powder around the spiders which was indeed the joints becoming dry. Sorry I don't have any photos. Best Regards
Dave
The universal joints I am fairly sure were the originals, I think at the time the car had travelled about 100,000 miles but this is about 30 years ago when I used the car as my regular transport, so unfortunatley I don't have any photos but as I said, when I inspected all the other joints there was a "tell tale sign" of orange/red dust powder around the spiders which was indeed the joints becoming dry. Sorry I don't have any photos. Best Regards
Dave