Running on idle problems

Rovertron

Member
Just a quick query really,

I replaced the dizzy cap, rotor arm and condenser for a lumpy ignition recently and I think it's uncovered a few nasties.

The car was never really that good coming off the choke early but recently it's had a nasty habit of stalling at idle off the choke especially coming to a stop at a junction etc....

The engine is warm, the ignition timing done and the idle rpm's checked at the last service on their dyno and new sparkplugs were fitted on the last service. A replacement fuel pump fitted last year.

I've also topped up the dashpots but it wasn't more than a thimble full of ATF.

The car is running happily on 1/4 choke but I'd like to get it off choke when warm.

I have a feeling at the moment that the fuel filter is filthy and restricting flow excessively and could need replacing or perhaps the HT leads are shot.

Could anyone add any other avenues to explore?
 
Could be just the slow running screws need a 1/4 turn, they can unscrew them selves due to vibration over time
 
Keane,

Brilliant, didn't think of that one. Now, to a novice like me, where are these 'slow running screws' located? On the carbs?

Cheers.
 
There are two screws on each carb, towards the back near the air box, the ones against an elipse/cam adjust the slow running on choke, the slow running screws are slightly further to the centre, put a 1/4 to 1/2 a turn clockwise on each one, make sure you do the same amount on both

There are locking nuts on them so try to tighten this nut with a pair of long nose plyers once you have adjusted the slow running speed

John
 
Just to add that adjusting those screws sorted it on only a 1/4 turn of each. Took it out for a run and the idle is certainly up again.

Might need to turn 1/8 counter-clock just to reach a balance between no stalling and the gear selection as it's a auto. N to D and N to R aren't rabbit punch bad but it's a little more fierce than before.

Other than that, many thanks, one less thing to worry about. :)
 
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