Replacing sump gasket on BW35

mrtask

mrtask

Well-Known Member
My automatic has been dripping from more than half of the bolts holding the sump in place. My mate reckoned I had over-tightened them, damaging the gasket, so today I put the car on the lift, drained the sump and removed it. Previously I had used some sort of black squidgy (silicon?) stuff from Liqui-Moly on both the box face and the sump face, sandwiching the cork gasket. This time I thought I'll just use a new cork gasket. My question is, should I fit it bone dry, or give it a smear of something, and if so, what?
 
Don't put anything on the gasket especially silicone.

Make sure that the gasket face of the sump is flat, they tend to "dome" upwards around the bolts and that means the gasket isn't held tight enough between the bolts. If that's the case then dress the domes down until flat. There's probably a torque setting for the bolts but I just nip them up until the point where any tighter squidges the gasket out, which is what you want to avoid.
 
Thanks for the tip Harvey. I've cleaned the garage floor and parked up after a little test run. If there's no drips on the floor tomorrow I'll be chuffed.
The sump drain plug is slotted for a flat screwdriver, but has seen better days. I needed molegrips to remove it and tighten it back up. :roll: :oops:
What thread is it, and shouldn't it be hex head like the engine sump bolt?
 
mrtask said:
What thread is it, and shouldn't it be hex head like the engine sump bolt?
Click to expand...

They all have the large slotted plug, although over time some get fitted with Allen plugs.

I'm sure I have good used slotted plugs if you feel the need to change it. (And tbh if you really did have to use molegrips it does sound as though it's pretty mullered).
 
I'll try and find one tomorrow and send you a PM.

Offering beer tokens is very noble of you, especially in the current run of hot weather we're experiencing here.

"Mullered" just seemed to fit the bill perfectly. :LOL:
 
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