Rear Gearbox Leak

I ordered the parts, just have to wait to hear back from my supplier.
I am not sure how long this has been like this. Thanks to Harvey I can put it right.
What problems might occur if the correct spacers and rubber bushings aren't in place?
 
cdnp6 said:
What problems might occur if the correct spacers and rubber bushings aren't in place?
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I would imagine there is quite a bit of vibration in that area so the bushes and spacers prevent the vibration being transmitted through the rest of the car. Vibration can also cause nuts and bolts to loosen over time, hence the nylocs or spring washers. Finally, vibration leads to fatigue in the metal which causes micro-fractures over time, weakening the structure.

Dave
 
cdnp6 said:
I ordered the parts, just have to wait to hear back from my supplier.
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Could you tell me the supplier that had them in stock?
My TC came pretty much like yours in the gearbox support department, and although i tried to compensate being creative with rubber bits, i would like to make it as its makers intended to.
 
I am still waiting to hear back from my supplier. I use "All British Cars" - allbritishcars@shaw.ca - In Vancouver B.C. Canada. She usually calls or emails if a part is unavailable, and I haven't heard anything yet....
I'll have to get in touch with her and see what she was able to come up with. I'll let you know what I find out!
 
Demetris,
As mentioned earlier, ABC was able to supply the rubber cushions (539032, 539030) and the spring (539029).
I have also received the rubber bushes (542949).
The metal spacing tubes may not be available, so maybe a helpful member can measure the length and diameters for us to make our own. Didn't Rebekah's owner just pull his gearbox?
I also ordered the metal spring seat (539031) but received another retainer pad (539030). I am again waiting for word if this is still available.
Without it the adjusting screw wont adjust anything.
 
Cheers for that. :D
If i remember well, (it has been a while since the last time i was under there) my car has the spacers (542950) and probably the adjuster seat (539031).
But it completely misses the rubbers.
The rubber bushes that you mention as 542949 are mentioned in my (1973) parts manual as 556436. Probably Rover changed them at some time.
Anyway, i will try to find them somewhere closer to Greece (West Coast of Canada seems to be too far away! :LOL: ) other wise i will definately contact ABC.
 
Harvey, would I be safe in making the spacers by finding some 5/16 inner diameter tubing and cutting off at the same length as the two rubbers stacked on top of each other?
Demetris, I think Scott's should have the rubber bushes, cushions, pads.
 
I will be getting my series 1 TC 4 speed gearbox sorted this spring to fix the leak and have the shafts and gears inspected while the box is out.
Is it is possible to remove the gearbox without having to pull the engine? Has anyone done this and have any tips or advice?
 
cdnp6 said:
I will be getting my series 1 TC 4 speed gearbox sorted this spring to fix the leak and have the shafts and gears inspected while the box is out.
Is it is possible to remove the gearbox without having to pull the engine? Has anyone done this and have any tips or advice?
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I can remember doing this a long time ago.

I do remember having to get the front end up quite high, the top bellhousing bolts needed two 10" extension bars to undo, remove the radiator as the front of the engine/fan can hit it when you drop the box down, and when you have removed all of the bellhousing bolts and dropped the box down you will need to spin the gearbox so that the lump where the starter fits into is uppermost.

It is a bit tight and I did wonder when doing it whether it might be easier to remove he engine and box complete.

Best of luck with it

Richard
 
Thanks guys.
I'll be letting my British car specialist deal with this in the spring or summer.
I'll let you know how it turns out.
Roy
 
My car is finally in the shop to get gearbox leak sorted for once and for all.
I supplied the mechanics with the workshop manual, and directions provided by forum members to remove gearbox alone.
Gearbox was removed alone, and I am waiting for a clutch withdrawal sleeve and spigot bearing to arrive at the shop for final reassembly.
The selector shaft seals are in, and all reports so far indicate the rest of the box is in good shape.
Roy
 
I picked up my car yesterday at the mechanics after finally getting the selector shaft seals replaced. Gear lever throw had also been tightened up.
I drove it home 120 km with no problems.
Pics from under the car this morning show a brilliantly clean gearbox! No drips on cardboard under car!
However....
Driving the car today for several trips without any issues, on the last trip around town, I could not select second gear...
Happened several times in a short period. Goes through the gears without issue at a standstill.
The only thing I did not try was rev matching or double clutching.
The mechanic did mention, and pics confirm, the metalastic bush at the gear lever side of the selector shaft was in bad shape.
Ideas?
 
I think that Harvey has mentioned before that second gear selection problems could be due to nut in the output shaft coming undone.
Perhaps he can verify this.
There is also a more serious version of this problem, if you have the old type gearbox with the bronze bushes in the mainshaft, instead of the needle roller bearings of the later ones. One of the bushes, (i think it is top hat shaped) broke up.

On a lighter note, it could be just you, that you are pulling the lever too hard to the left, and it keeps sticking on the reverse stop. I am saying this because i am doing it myself somethimes when i change down to second from third and at the same time turn left (on a LHD car).
 
Demetris said:
I think that Harvey has mentioned before that second gear selection problems could be due to nut in the output shaft coming undone.
Perhaps he can verify this.
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Yes, the tailshaft nut being loose can cause selection problems, and it's normally with second gear as well because as you select the manshaft moves forwards instead of staying where it should be and engaging the gear. But the rear flange will have been off, as it would have to have been to do the gaskets. The only other thing that can cause the nut to be loose, is when it's been left loose on reassembly, because fully tightening it locks the gearbox up solid, and that's caused by using one of the replacement rear mainshaft bearings with the sleeve on the inside.
 
Thanks for the replies Demetris and Harvey.
If I remove the bung on the right side of the tunnel, will I be able to check if anything needs tightened?
Maybe as Demetris said I didnt select the gear properly. Possible with the gear lever throw being tightened up, but I drove the car for an hour or so today without any problems. I'll have to see if this happens again.
Roy
 
Tightening the rear flange nut involves removing the propshaft at the front joint. Another check you can do is drive the car and see whether as you go on and off the throttle you can feel or see the gearlever moving backwards and forwards, as the mainshaft will be doing the same thing if the nut is loose.
 
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