Rear disc retaining bolts

Ian: (I think that's you - josephp6man - isn't it), I don't know if I would have the strength to undo these with a ring spanner, however good it was - I'd have to have a few weeks worth of dedicated sessions at the gym before even thinking about it, and there's still not a lot of room in there. :(

Colin: That sounds like a good idea too. I'll give it a try. I guess the important thing now is not to rush it, and just go a step at a time.

Steve
 

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having seen so many pristine "underneaths" on the forum I'm pretty embarrassed about the state of this . . .

They only become nice underneaths when you take them apart and paint them up... which i guess is what you're doing now???

Rich
 
I undid these with a ring spanner...hands ended up bruised and indented! :) (I'm not kidding)
P.S...no strippy or rounding of bolts either thank goodness. The spanner was an old school Sidchrome from the early 80's
 
If the bolts put up a fight coming out , check the threads in the diff output shaft have not been damaged
Might be worth running a tap through them
 
hi,
it was easier to show the inside of the spanner than the socket as you can see what they look like. the socket would be used on the rear disc without question !

ian
 
Think I used a foot long breaker bar and a socket when I took mine out for the first time. Need to get the back end quite high to do that though.

having seen so many pristine "underneaths" on the forum I'm pretty embarrassed about the state of this . . .

Even once they've been painted they all end up dirty pretty quick once they've been out on the road.

Dave
 
This was a heart stopping moment, because if this didn't work, I wasn't sure what I would do next. Replace entire differential?
 

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They came undone with a slightly alarming cracking sound, which felt very similar and sounded very similar to the noise they made when my original socket slipped round on them. But they're off. Huge relief. Thanks for all the excellent advice everyone.

Steve
 

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They don't actually look as bad as I feared, but I'm really glad I waited for the impact socket before attempting anything else with them. Four new (or possibly used - not sure) ones on order from J R Wadhams.
 

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The special bolts have arrived from J R Wadham and they are crispy crunchy NEW. I just hope they are special enough to stand the 85lb/ft of torque.

Have also purchased a 15/16" ring spanner to tighten the spring loaded end cap nut on the caliper bearing. When I dismantled this offside caliper I removed the handbrake lever before using a socket to undo the nut. When I got it on the bench the little pin which the handbrake lever pushes was missing. I must have spent at least an hour searching the garage floor for it, and had come to the conclusion that whoever put it back together last time had done so without this essential part. Finally, after retracing my steps I found it sitting on top of the differential casing. It is quite a loose fit, so there is not a chance of it staying in position if the handbrake actuating arm isn't there to hold it, so a socket isn't an option. I hope this new plan works.

Strangely I didn't have any of these problems dismantling and reassembling the near-side caliper, so wasn't prepared.

Thanks again to everyone for all the excellent advice and feedback.

Steve
 

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dmblbit said:
The special bolts have arrived from J R Wadham and they are crispy crunchy NEW. I just hope they are special enough to stand the 85lb/ft of torque.

I'm sure they'll be fine, but from what I can make out on your picture they look turned rather than forged/threadrolled HT bolts. The edges look sharp and there are no head markings.

I guess for a limited quantity run the tooling and setup costs wouldn't be economic.

Like I say, sure they'll be OK. I'd make sure to use new lockwashers though.
 
Webmaster: I have copper grease! I went to Halfords for red brake grease and that's what they sold me. For some reason I wasn't convinced - I was expecting something red - and after some further research it turns out that this stuff isn't good for rubber seals so I didn't use it (well done Halfords!). I bought a little tiny tube of the proper red Castrol stuff from the local parts guy, and used that instead. But now I have a use for the rejected copper stuff.

Dave: Well, yes I suppose I would expect JRW to test them to 85lbs/ft before selling them, but who knows these days?

Vaultsman: I am afraid, I don't understand the difference between "turned" and "forged/threadrolled HT" - what does it all mean?

Just suppose they weren't as good as the originals? What's the most likely outcome of a failure - is it a stripped thread, or will it shear off?

I have just noticed that you can see my refurbished near side caliper peeping cheekily above the diff in that picture. A shiny new brass bleed nipple can just about be seen too. Purists will note that the bracket that should hold the flexible pipe is no more, and that although the caliper cover has been painted, the cover nuts have been re-used. I am hoping that these minor compromises are not mission critical - any want to tell me otherwise?

On another topic concerning pristine underneaths, while very envious of all the beautiful and perfect examples I have seen here, my current focus is on getting her roadworthy - I really want to drive her again. So I am afraid that stuff will have to wait. Once the brakes are done I have a huge welding project ahead of me, and I haven't learned to weld or even bought a welder yet, so all that is going to be some way down the track.

Steve
 
dmblbit said:
I have just noticed that you can see my refurbished near side caliper peeping cheekily above the diff in that picture. A shiny new brass bleed nipple can just about be seen too. Purists will note that the bracket that should hold the flexible pipe is no more, and that although the caliper cover has been painted, the cover nuts have been re-used.

I wouldn't worry about reusing the cover nuts, but I definitely would NOT leave the pipe support bracket off.
 
dmblbit said:
Vaultsman: I am afraid, I don't understand the difference between "turned" and "forged/threadrolled HT" - what does it all mean?

Just suppose they weren't as good as the originals? What's the most likely outcome of a failure - is it a stripped thread, or will it shear off?

Hi Steve,

Not wanting to bore you, but all commercial fasteners are made by forging the material into the final form by cold or hot forming processes, which deform the material and alter the grain structure. This adds strength to the fastener, whereas cutting processes (e.g. turning in a lathe) don't have this benefit.

Fasteners are graded by tensile strength, and must comply with relevant standards. Using a lower-grade fastener than required can result in stripped threads.

If I remember correctly, the driveshaft flange bolts are 7/16"-20 UNF and for them to withstand 85 lbs. ft. they should be at least Grade S to BS3382.

Have a look at page 3 on >this document<

It's an American document, but you'll see that 85 lbs. ft. is at the upper end of the range for 7/16" UNF Grade 8 to SAE J429, which is roughly equivalent to Grade S in our money.

Having said all that, no doubt other people have used those JRW fasteners with no problems. Personally (if they are indeed turned), I'd be happier with good used ones, but don't let me put you off! :)
 
OK - have fashioned a temporary retaining bracket from one of the discarded disk lock/tab washers. Will have to serve until I can source a proper replacement. What unspeakable joy it was to remove the near-side caliper yet again to fit it.

And now one more very good reason for not doing this kind of work at the end of the day. Have just replaced the (newer) disk with the new nuts and lock washers, all torqued up nicely using the impact socket to 85lbs/ft, and have just realised I have forgotten to connect the drive shaft. Thankfully, I haven't actually bent over the tabs on the lock washers yet. Leaving it til tomorrow now. Maybe I should take up knitting instead - deep sigh.
 
Old age plus a late night clearly taking its toll.
 

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