Rear caliper bleeding
- Thread starter mtb_tuli
- Start date
1st pic, handbrake quadrant looks to be back on its stop with the handbrake released. I can't quite see if the inner pad slipper is fitted the correct way up.
2nd pic there doesn't seem to be excess movement of the quadrant with the handbrake on but it's difficult to say for certain as I can't see the slotted head of the stop bolt.
3rd pic once again there doesn't appear to be excess movement of the quadrant to get the handbrake on, but the spring clip that rests against the outer pad should be on the rear of the caliper, not the front. The pad slipper is correctly fitted this side.
2nd pic there doesn't seem to be excess movement of the quadrant with the handbrake on but it's difficult to say for certain as I can't see the slotted head of the stop bolt.
3rd pic once again there doesn't appear to be excess movement of the quadrant to get the handbrake on, but the spring clip that rests against the outer pad should be on the rear of the caliper, not the front. The pad slipper is correctly fitted this side.
Barten
Active Member
I have taken off the rh side disc an tried to adjust out the piston. I first turnet it 2 turns, tried to get the disc and pads on again. It was too tight. V
Winded it back one turn. Still too tight. So now I am back to the original setting.
Harvey, I see what you say abot the pad slippers and the spring to hold back the wear wiring from the discs. The slippers, are they supposed to be sitting "high" or "low" . To me it looks like the lower position is right.
And I think I have to look elsewhere for the culprit. I suspect something inside the servo slave cylinder is not correct.
Regards Barten
Winded it back one turn. Still too tight. So now I am back to the original setting.
Harvey, I see what you say abot the pad slippers and the spring to hold back the wear wiring from the discs. The slippers, are they supposed to be sitting "high" or "low" . To me it looks like the lower position is right.
And I think I have to look elsewhere for the culprit. I suspect something inside the servo slave cylinder is not correct.
Regards Barten
You get it close, then slide the disc in, then remove the disc, go a few clicks, slide the disc back in, and so on. When it gets really close put the disc in and mount it on the dowels, and even then you should get a bit more. if you go too far, wind the piston back in one turn and go again.
jp928
Well-Known Member
If putting speed bleeders on front calipers I found std Russell bleeders (639590) too short to get a spanner on well, due to proximity of the caliper bolts. There is a long version (639600) that will work better. Fortunately I didnt have to bleed the rears - with the car on quick-jacks I could see the bleed nipple, but getting a spanner on it was difficult.
mikecoombs
Active Member
The trick with the rear bleeder is to run the tube over the top of backing plate. If you use a short 3/8" ring open end spanner (use the ring end with the tube threaded through the hole) you can then reach up one handed and open and close the nipple as required (it only takes a small movement to open)
Phil Robson
Well-Known Member
Yes - as Mike says. It’s not difficult, but is far easier if the car’s on a ramp or over a pit so you can get in a comfortable position.
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classicalgreen
Active Member
I have fitted an extension Flexi capped with bleed nipple on rear brakes . so much easier I found than trying to struggle with original fitted nipple in its position .
