Rear Brakes Inoperative

#1
Hello All!

I have recently purchased my 2000sc and I have found that despite both front brakes being fine, the handbrake and both rear brakes are do not work at all. They do not cause any drag when the brake is pushed. I know the car was sat without being driven for at least 1 year before I bought it. It has the Girling type brakes.

I was wondering if there was anything I could try to fix the problem before I started removing drive shafts, calipers etc. I read on a dead thread on another forum something to do with pushing the calipers back in in situ in order to unstick the auto adjusting system, any ideas? I'm new to Rovers and am yet to figure out how the slightly confusing calipers and handbrake mechanism work!

Many thanks in advance,

Tom
 

harveyp6

Well-Known Member
#2
If both the hand and foot brake are not working then it can only be a fault with the calipers. Without knowing any more history of the car then the chances are the calipers are going to have to be removed and dismantled. You can't prise back the pistons to free off the auto adjustment mechanism.

If you could post pics of the calipers, handbrake linkage and pads, that may give more of a clue.
 
#4
Have had a good inspection under the car and have attached a couple of pics.

NS caliper looks like it has been replaced at some point
OS caliper looks much older and has some brake fluid drops on it
NS and OS pads show a strange wear and are much thinner towards the bottom
Discs have a fair bit of surface rust on showing as expected have not done any braking recently
The whole handbrake mechanism is free to move, and moves the full extent of its motion without doing any braking
Brake line looks fine condition. Mounting bracket doesn't appear to be pinching the line

I was wondering if you have any advice on what the problems might be. I imagine I will have to remove the calipers, and plan on doing so this weekend.

Cheers!
Rover NS Outer Pad (2).jpg Rover OS Caliper.jpg Rover Rear Brake Line.jpg
Rover OS Caliper Leak.jpg
 

harveyp6

Well-Known Member
#5
Because of the leaks you will have to remove the calipers. The pads are supposed to be tapered like that. The pad slippers and springs and shims are all incorrectly fitted. If the pics were taken with the handbrake "OFF" then the cable is incorrectly adjusted. Not that it really matters but the clevis pins are in the wrong way around as well. If it has had a recent new caliper then the chances are that it hasn't been set up correctly at that time.
 
#6
Thanks Harvey. Will get looking for a rebuild kit and get the calipers off. Thanks. If anybody has any recommendations for good suppliers for rebuild kits then advice would be much appreciated. I am on a limited budget and am currently eyeing up the kits on MGBD parts and ebay suppliers
 

harveyp6

Well-Known Member
#7
MGBD do calipers with the bores sleeved in stainless, which means any reseals further down the line are just that, no more worries over pitted bores. Alternatively the likes of Past Parts will sleeve the caliper bodies for you to rebuild with a seal kit.
 

cobraboy

Well-Known Member
#8
The tank sender unit looks wet, I cant be sure of the exact location above the caliper, but wonder if that is fuel dripping down and not a brake fluid leak ???
 

Phil Robson

Well-Known Member
#9
There is clearly a case for rebuilding those calipers, but is the outer pad on the o/s caliper (2nd picture) seated correctly? I can't see how only the very top would make contact with the disc if the pad was able to 'wiggle' freely on the locating bolts :confused:
 
#10
I think the pad is touching over the whole surface in that shot, the depth of field of the shot and foreground being out of focus makes it hard to tell.

Yours
Vern
 
#11
The tank sender unit looks wet, I cant be sure of the exact location above the caliper, but wonder if that is fuel dripping down and not a brake fluid leak ???
I think wet looking sender is just waxoyl type stuff reflecting, the liquid on the caliper is definitely brake fluid.

There is clearly a case for rebuilding those calipers, but is the outer pad on the o/s caliper (2nd picture) seated correctly? I can't see how only the very top would make contact with the disc if the pad was able to 'wiggle' freely on the locating bolts :confused:
I think the pad is touching over the whole surface in that shot, the depth of field of the shot and foreground being out of focus makes it hard to tell.

Yours
Vern
Am not 100% quite what you mean Phil. From what I have seen the pad touches all of the disk
 
#13
When the caliper operates the top of the outer pad & the bottom of the inner pad touch first, but then get clamped evenly. I'd suspect that that caliper barely works, just enough to touch off the pads but not enough to clamp them onto the rotor. That would explain the rust-free band at the top of the outside surface of the disk, and the suggestion of one at the bottom on the inside surface.

Yours
Vern
 
Top