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Rear brake overhaul-general advice

Discussion in 'Brakes' started by BobTaylor, Aug 20, 2017.

  1. BobTaylor

    BobTaylor Member

    i am just about to start replacing rear discs and pads on my p6. I have two general questions.
    Should I do one side at a time or is is it good practice to jack the complete rear of the car to work on both sides?
    I have not worked on a p6 before, normally I would put a trolley jack under the rear diff and then support with axle stands. What is the best way on a P6, it may be jacked up for a few days so it needs to be safe and secure.
    Thanks in anticipation.
  2. classicalgreen

    classicalgreen Active Member

    not over keen trying to jack on diff .rear of car is rather heavy . I fit jack on near wheel and damper on strong section , then lift each side and fit axle stands. so far so good though room is tight doing it this way. i have never tried the actual rover jacking points themselves . though all looks good I don't want risk buckling anything . though no external rust at all I am not going to tempt fate. I find dropping half shafts at diff and removing discs was best of rem to give access and ease when changing break pads. its easy enough to wind piston back too then. I have also jacked where suspension arm meets bodywork using a section of wood to spread load. this is easier to do. however if unsure bodywork e.g. corrosion do be careful.
  3. cobraboy

    cobraboy Active Member

    I use the rear jacking point all the time. It is located just behind the rear valance in the centre - a steel block that hangs down. To think in the early days I was going to cut it off, glad I did not.
    I leave the jack there and place axle stands under suspension pick up points or wherever is out of the way.
    Whilst you are in there take the calipers off and put seal kits in them, making sure ever thing is free and lubed, and consider changing the flexi hose. Then you wont have to re visit for a while.
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2017
  4. yosini

    yosini New Member

    I have a similar question, I'm about to do both rear brake cylinders, discs and pads (and by the sounds of it any flexi hose I can). Whilst I need to do one cylinder I plan on doing the lot. Anyway, my question; I've been looking for a reason to buy some kind of car lift, not a 4post thing but something more residential garage sized, there are scissor type ones on fleabay that look like thdy could be good - has anyone or does anyone use something similar they can recommend, and for this type of job is there any kind which wouldn't be suitable because of access restrictions etc.

    Thanks in advance

  5. BobTaylor

    BobTaylor Member

    Decided to start on the rear discs today, fell at the first hurdle. I can't undo any of the four nuts/bolts on the half shaft. There is not much room under the car and I have tried using sockets with extensions to work outside the car, I managed to split one socket in half!!!
    Would anyone advise WD40 and or some heat?
    I Guess if it was up on a lift it would be easier, but I dint have one.
  6. colnerov

    colnerov Well-Known Member

    Hi, Use an impact socket they are a lot more robust, your selection of extensions to reach outside the car, support them on an axle stand, then pushing down with your breaker bar. Don't use an impact gun because they lose their effectiveness with all the extension connections.

  7. BobTaylor

    BobTaylor Member

    Managed to use an impact gun direct without any extensions, no problem. Two hours to fit new disc and pads.
    colnerov likes this.
  8. Johnnybgood

    Johnnybgood New Member

    I use a tilting lift that spreads the load widely over the sills. I've taken all the brakes and de dion tube off. I'll send a picture if it'll let me. John,Stockport

    Attached Files:

  9. Johnnybgood

    Johnnybgood New Member

    Found one of the Rover on the lift.

    Attached Files:

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