P6 welding - New Boy!

S

Scooterperv

New Member
Erk.

About three hours ago, I agreed to purchase a 1970 Series 1 2000 TC, T&T'd, all running and tickety boo and stuff, but needing some lurve having sat around for a bit. I've not owned a Rover of any description before, and it'll be my only car, as Mrs. Perv won't allow me to have 2 outside the house.

It looks pretty good, apart from a pretty rot D post thingie on the offside (real technical, me! :p ), with daylight visible (just) when you open the rear door and 2 holes in the plate that the outer wing bolts to. I guess it's best to cut the lot out and weld in, but can anyone give me any hints, tips of wrinkles. Oh, and what's the least painful method of changing the window and door-to-door rubbers, as the car comes with hundreds of brand new spares, including those. It's recently had a new engine, brakes, servo, exhaust, ignition system, sills (inner? outer? there seem to be about 8 sills on these things!), but is fundamentally unmolested with 123000 on the clock and I'd like to keep it that way. The engine needs LRP or an additive, can anyone recommend a good one, as I know it's protested when subjected to at least one brand, but don't know which one ???

Oh, and did I do the right thing at £350, or did they see me coming?
 
Scooterperv,
Yes, of course you did the right thing! That sort of money usually only buys a box of spares (restoration project!) so that's cheap! The enjoyment from driving a car like the P6 is is difficult to measure but a wonderful experience!
Know nothing about welding or body restoration (there are plenty of experts and much discussion elsewhere on this site tho') but I can advise you about fuels.
Depending on what you can buy near you, use Super unleaded, Shell Optimax or BP Ultimate plus Castrol Valvemaster Plus (which is an approved additive with octane improver available from Halfords etc. for £10 per bottle which treats many tanks of fuel). Real 4 star is available around the country but is very dear (but you don't need an additive as it is nearly 5 star in octane). If you send me an e-mail address I will send you my article on fuels that appeared in P6 NEWS. (Cannot attach thro' this forum).
Regards, John.
 
Hi,

You've got a job on your hands sorting out the D-posts!! My advice would be to patch them for now unless your planning to replace the sills as well. The reason being that the D-post has to be removed to replace the sill. You can get a full outer D-post pressing from JR Wadhams which i've been told is very good (although there is a little work to do swapping brackets over) but unless you have access to spot welder it'll need to be plug welded back in place and therefore v.difficult (read impossible) to remove again in one piece)

There are only two parts to the sill. The outer panel that you can see is screwed on and cosmetic only. The panel you can see behind it is the sill proper. The other part of the sill can be seen underneath the carpet from inside the car and is actually formed as a complete pressing with the floor of the car. It's actually simpler than most monocoque cars which have an inner and outer sill with a hidden internal stiffener which can take various forms. With a P6 once the screw on sill cover is removed you can see the whole lot!

Patch it up as neatly as you can for now so that you can keep the car on the road and decide whether you like it or not before embarking on anything like a restoration.

From the sounds of things you'll be able to get your money back flogging all the new spares if you don't like it.

Good luck

Bennet
 
Bennet,

Hi. The sills were replaced in 2002. I have the receipt. I have a good relationship with a local bodyshop, so I will source the parts from Wadhams and get them to do all the work. They have access to all the latest gear.

I've been driving the car again today, and it's actually nicer to drive than my V6 Granada, and not that much slower.

Richard
 
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