Overheating issue with my 2200 TC

I have the same problem with a stubborn stud in a spare block that i have, and i thought about welding the large nut into the stud. I never tried though, but perhaps this is a trick that could help.
 
I tried yesterday and didn't succeed. I can't block the nuts in order to unscrew the stud. They turn together. I'll see with a friend next week end and may be sacrifice the stud in order to remove it.
To be continued...
 
Try locking the two nuts together as tight as you can with the outermost nut level with the top of the stud and then hit it end-on with a copper hammer before trying to undo it.
 
Victory!



I struggled again and after heating the stud, it came off

and what's behind the plate





Close up of the front cylinder





The plate







After cleaning






So, what do you think of it? Is it so bad that it can lead the engine to overheat?
I loked at the other plate and it seems that there's a leak so I think that I'll remove it too but there's some things to remove to get some room. Is it easy to do?
Please let me know
 
I have seen worse. On my engine the crud was up to the tide mark on yours. Have you checked the other side? you can't clean or check it from the other side, the plate needs to come off.

I wouldn't reuse the side plates. If you fix on hole there will be another along to spoil your day.

Colin
 
No, Colin, I didn't go to the other side yet, because there's work to do to make room. BTW, can you tell me what would be the clever way to make room without removing everything on the RHS of the engine?
Sorry but I don't get the sens of "if you fix on hole there will be another along to spoil your day"
 
You can take the drivers side plate off without removing the oil pump etc. You need a spanner which is long enough to reach the the bolts and be able to move. It is fiddly but not impossible.

With the side plates in that condition if you were to clean them up and repair any pin holes then in a few weeks/months you will find another pin hole and have to redo the job again. "ruin your day"

Colin
 
full


http://photos.orange.co.uk/my/album?album_id=28712699q

Hopefully this link works. Have a look at the pics.
Colin
 
Thanks for sorting that link, I was posting on my phone. Copied some pics to my photobucket as the old orange one doesn't like being posted for some reason.

This is the drivers side, it is fiddly but rather that than take the oil pump off. it is too hard. you will see the sludge which has built up and how much better it looks when cleaned out.

Colin





 
Thanks for the links
It's a good news that I have not to remove everything.Not easy but can be done

j- Radcliffe, in a way I would have prefer finding this mud behind the plate because so far I don't know why it overheat
 
Have you confirmed that the temperature sender is operating correctly? I had my temperature sender fail about 17 years ago. I would get in the car to do somewhere, and it would go to max on the gauge, when the car had been sitting all night. I would suggest getting hold of an infrared thermometer gun, and checking the temperature at the thermostat housing and compare with the temp on the gauge. Has your fuel tank gauge been working well. If it has not, the you might have a voltage regulator issue. A voltage regulator feeds both the temperature gauge and the fuel gauge. Also a short in the wire to the temp sender against the block or any earth point would cause the gauge the go to full deflection.

James.
 
Yes James, I checked the temperature sender the old fashion way with hot water and a thermometer. The reading on the gauge was comparable to the thermometer
I'll try to remove the side plate next week end.
 
I removed the RHS side plate today and it 's even better than the other side







The plate is not so bad



There'll be three or four bolts tricky to refit....
 
Hi everyone,
I have enough time at last to work on the car. Does anyone know what is the torque setting for the 22 bolts of the side plates? I can't find it. I don't want to under or overtightened them which can lead to leaks.
Thank you
 
Thank you Harvey. So I'll tighten them as I feel then. Hope there 'll be no leaks, that's my major concern
 
When you put the bolts back on put some never seize or copper grease on the threads. That way if you ever have to take a side plate off again, you are less likely to have problems.

James.
 
Thank you j_radcliffe, I did put some grease on the bolts and the plates are on now

I began by the LHS plate, the easier one









Then the RHS, more difficult because I didn't removed anything









The rather tricky thing is the front bolts



But I had a special tool: the hand of my 9 years old son!



Unfortunatly, I broke one of the waterpump bolt in the block when I refitted it.... Additional work to be done

Tonight there's a movie on the French TV called "the Bank Job" and there's a lot of P6 in it (mostly police ones)
 
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