Original Radio - Wiring Diagram

Re: Original Radio

if you have fm in the car then you can get an fm transmitter for the ipod...

Rich
 
Re: Original Radio

She bought me one of those too but it's far from ideal as the FM band is so crowded it's hard to find empty waveband space, especially in London & out & about you have to keep adjusting it as local stations come in & out. It's OK for the lorries but in my own motors I want a direct connection.
I'd want to keep the radio so soldering the connection direct to the volume control would be out, not to mention too complicated for me with my later stereo units.
 
Re: Original Radio

What sort of stereo do you have now? My V8 currently has a nice enough Sony CD stereo with an ipod input plug in the front. Works well and was pretty cheap, about $140 if I remember (about 65 quid in your money).
 
Re: Original Radio

15thMay20083.jpg


This is my 8 track player in my 2200 auto, which I had done by Roger Beasley at Sutton Coldfield a few years ago. It still plays the tapes, and has medium wave and long wave (all I really listen to). Also has the MP3 connection for the Ipod.

The radio is the best sounding one I'd have - presumably because it has been rebuilt.

Only problem with putting an 8 track in is that you need to widen the aperture for the radio on the facia by about 3mm each side, and it's not a nice job.

I have speakers front and rear, which means the only time I get the stereo image is when my head it turned sideways. Small drawback!

Cheers
Nick
 
Re: Original Radio

I really the large number of fast responces on this forum.

I've been looking at some prices of other beckers and they are a lot.
So as an alternative I might put a modern radio in the glove box. With ipod connection etc... Not just a chinese amp, I would also like some FM radio...

Until i find a decent "old" radio, i would likt to put in a blanking plate, like this:

Assorted048.jpg


Anyone know where to find one of those?
Does anyone have any pictures of a radio set-up in de glove box?

Thanks!
 
Re: Original Radio

She bought me one of those too but it's far from ideal as the FM band is so crowded it's hard to find empty waveband space, especially in London & out & about you have to keep adjusting it as local stations come in & out. It's OK for the lorries but in my own motors I want a direct connection.
I'd want to keep the radio so soldering the connection direct to the volume control would be out, not to mention too complicated for me with my later stereo units.

I can understand that. It is possible to make a arrangment which intercepts the wire(s) from the radio part on their way to the volume control and put in a jack socket which interrupts the signal. This is mechanical in nature so you wouldnt have to worry about the little circuit with the op amp and capacitors which should go before or in parallel with the volume knob if you do it electrically. something like thishttp://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=1196( Cutting a wire and soldering to that is easier than desoldering and resoldering old components imho ) Sounds to me like you'd be more into a ready made solution though...

Rich.
 
Re: Original Radio

i use an FM modulator. See link.

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=44128

Basically you plug you iPod into it and converts the signal to an FM one and feeds it directly into your radio on an FM channel via the aerial socket. The unit sits between your aerial and the radio so if it is off, you get normal radio, if it is on it plays whatever else you have plugged into it. As it is hardwired in, there is no reception problem. The sound is good and you can use it with any stereo with an FM radio. I have one in a Lexus LS400. As the radio is an integral part of the dashboard in that, it means no chopping about!
 
Re: Original Radio

Radios here in the States were installed by the dealer. One of the results is varying placement of the antenna. From my spare parts here I have a bonnet with an antenna hole drilled up near the windshield, a front wing with a hole drilled in it, and a rear decker with a hole. Now I am faced with filling the hole in the bonnet, which I intend to use on my car. I prefer the rear deck location so that one will stay.
 
Re: Original Radio

DaveHerns said:
Fitting an aerial on the bonnet ? That sounds like someone's mistake

Depends on where you are. My NZ-new 1970 2000TC had an aerial fitted to the bonnet from new. A big thing with copper coils all around the base. It just depends on where in the world you are at the time..
 
I ve made a decision and I'm going with the blanking plate and radio in glove box.

When I was checking the wiring yesterday, I've noticed that the dash lights are not working.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for a 1977 3500 V8?
It would help me a lot!

Thanks!
 
If rheostat means "knob to regulate dash light intensity", than:
No, thats not it, i've tried it. They are really not working.
 
Never mind, always worth trying the easy things first........

They are fused on fuse 9-10, have you checked that? The supply runs from that fuse, through the rheostat, to the dash lights. Follow the supply through, from the fuse through the rheostat, and the multiplug on the rear of the dash unit.
 
harveyp6 said:
Never mind, always worth trying the easy things first........
Couldn't agree more...

harveyp6 said:
They are fused on fuse 9-10, have you checked that? The supply runs from that fuse, through the rheostat, to the dash lights. Follow the supply through, from the fuse through the rheostat, and the multiplug on the rear of the dash unit.

I've checked the fuses, but I didn't know which one it was, since I don't have any owners manual... And the fuseboxcover is missing...
Anyway, all the fuses were working. I'll follow the wire tonight.

Thanks!
 
I've done some measuring last night. I have removed the switch panel and noticed that the lights were burning, but not bright at all.

I measured the voltage at the light bulb location and this was only 6V.

The rheostat was at "full power". Does anybody know what could be causing this problem?

Thanks again!

niels
 
Check the voltage going in and coming out of the rheostat. If it goes in 12v and comes out 6v even with the rheostat on its highest setting then I would substitute a known good one.
 
ok, will do that. How do I gain acces to the wires on the other side of the smal panel?
Sorry for all these "stupid" questions but I'm a newbie to the p6...
 
You'll probably need to pull the instrument cluster out, then you'll see the back of the rheostat on the end support panel. You shouldn't need to disconnect anything, just carefully pull it towards you. If you are going to get into doing things yourself, then a workshop manual and a parts book will come in very handy, and give you an idea of what you will need to do before you actually start.

I don't see these as "stupid" questions at all, and certainly nowhere near as stupid as blundering in when you don't know what you're doing.
 
I've bypassed the rheostats on our 2200 & P5B. On the P5 this brightened the bulbs considerably, on the 2200 it was a couple of concurrent faults putting the dash lights out but I left it disconnected anyway. I always have them at maximum.
 
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