No kick-down!

P

prospect8816

Member
This problem refuses to go away. If you remember, I have mentioned this problem before, but whatever I do, doesn't work!

I have been in contact with "AutoGearboxes" of Hailsham, East Sussex. Who say, (I quote) "It is unlikely to be anything inside the transmission, it is usually caused by linkage problems of some sort. This was a very common problem when they were commonplace on our roads & we never found it to be an internal issue". (Unquote). I have had the throttle linkage checked out by my mechanic, who said that he thought the cable was ok! I really do need this kick-down facility to work...!

My question therefore, are their any members who have had similar problems, and what was the solution??

I look forward as ever to your replies!

Paul :?
 
Do you have the gromit/bearing in bracket or is the link rod floating about?

Difficult to describe but if you look at the bracket is will be obvious.

Colin
 
Hello Paul,

The downshift cable must be of the correct length, and adjusted correctly so that when the accelerator is fully depressed both the carburettor butterflies must be fully open and the downshift cable fully extended. When this happens the kickdown valve within the transmission will be activated. If the cable is too long or not correctly adjusted then kickdown will not happen. KIckdown will also fail to happen if the linkages are not correctly adjusted, that is one or more are too short or there is excessive play in the system. The rubber grommets which locate the linkage need to be in good condition as a start.

Have you measured the centre-to-centre linkage lengths to acertain if they are correct? I have adjusted both the long verticle and short verticle rods to increase their length on my engine, and the downshift cable is set so that once the accelerator pedal reaches full travel and depression of the button against the carpet is about to take place, kickdown is actuated. If you watch the linkages as you depress the pedal, you can both feel and see when the kickdown takes place.

I have never heard of such a comment as it being common place. Sounds like you need to find a better transmission specialist.

Ron.
 
I'd be surprised if it was an internal fault, it will either be the throttle bracket bush, the cable incorrectly set, or the wrong cable. And it was a very common problem when the cars were commonplace. So I agree that far with the specialist you have visited. Whether they would be able to set it up for you so that it works though is another matter. With the throttle wide open at kickdown, if you pull the kickdown cable upwards you shouldn't be able to feel the kickdown cam operating, if you can then the cable is out of adjustment, and the outer cable needs winding down in the bracket. It really needs setting up by someone who knows how to do them, who will be able to do it, or tell you if there are other faults causing it not to function.

Is this a 4 cylinder car, or a V8, and if it's a V8 is it the long or the short cable?
 
Hi guy's.

Firstly apologies for delay in getting back to you.

In reply to all your positive feedback, I cannot answer yet as the car has just failed it's MOT...!!

It failed on 3 items.
Firstly, the rear n/s brake caliper is leaking quite badly with fluid contaminating the brake pads.
Secondly, the horns (which had been working well) decided to fail on the day of the test! Typical...!
And thirdly, the split-pin which fits in the top end of the front off-side ball joint of the front suspension, is missing!

I have sourced a replacement b/caliper plus a set of pads (4) from Wins Int Ltd. These to be delivered direct to my mechanic. Once he has these, then I just leave my car with him, and hopefully he will get it all done within the 10 days grace I have, when i'm only charged for a re-test. Otherwise it's a full re-test!

Hopefully, this will be the last of me paying out, and give me a chance to get out & about! That's mainly what I bought it for..!

I shall show my mechanic your replies to my "kick-down" problem, and maybe he can sort it out. And before I forget, the reserve fuel pulley (the part that's opposite the choke) doesn't work. So maybe he can fix that too..!

Regards

Paul :(
 
The cable can sieze.

Replacements are cheap enough. You need a solid core cable.

I replaced mine with a heater cable for a mini and swapped the disc over.

colin
 
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