No charge!

The only problem that i can think of is if the output of your alternator (11 AC right?) is in alternating current and is rectified in a separate "box" and not within the alternator body as in later ACR models.
 
Demetris said:
The only problem that i can think of is if the output of your alternator (11 AC right?) is in alternating current and is rectified in a separate "box" and not within the alternator body as in later ACR models.
Click to expand...


Demetris

I'm pretty sure the output of the 11AC is rectified internally so is DC. You could not connect a +12V DC supply to an AC output connector, well you could, but it wouldn't be very happy. It is however regulated externally and that regulation will remain. If you look back at the first diagram I posted earlier all I intend to do is bypass the cable that goes from the battery +ve, onto the starter solenoid, then onto the alternator B+

If it doesn't work I'll think of something else.

cheers
 
Gents

Thought I would complete his thread with an update on my alterator saga. I did the check as mentioned above and the result was still no charge. I found a few other checks in the workshop manual that involved checking the volts drop between the alternator output and the battery +ve, and the alternator case and battery –ve (any significant volts drop would indicate a wiring snag) and again the results pointed to the alternator.

So I removed the alternator, connected the F+ and F- directly to a battery, put a drill on the rotor and spun it. This proved conclusively that the alternator was faulty. To double check I put a DMM set to ohms across the field terminals and it showed an open circuit. Open circuit = no current flow = no electromagnetic field = no induced voltage in the stator coil = NO OUTPUT! :(

The rotor coil had finally failed completely so the alternator was sent back to JRWs. I spoke to Jonathan and he was great :) . The company that reconditions his 11ACs picked it up the day it arrived and confirmed the rotor coil was faulty. In return I got a reconditioned alternator back with a completely rewound rotor coil. This equates to a 90% new unit and when I fitted it worked straight away. RESULT :D :D and relief now that my car is back on the road after a month of charging problems. Hope this thread will be of use to anyone else with charging problems in the future. If anyone needs any help please let me know as I think I’m now something of an expert on the Lucas 11AC charging circuit.
 
Hi Dave,
Perhaps you could do a "Janet & John" article (lots of pictures and diagrams for the electrically illiterate) for Driving Force. I'd be really interested in reading about it.

Bri.
 
Hi Folks,

I just discovered that the terminals on my alternator are in the same condition as shown in Dave's first set of pictures. The alternator was charging the car (apparently) fine before the wire drifted off. The threaded rod snapped when I tried to undo the nut. I have not had time to disassemble the alternator to see whether Dave is correct about the broken threaded rod beingone of the ones that holds the entire thing together.

I do have 2 spare 18 ACR units - would it be best to fit one of them? If so, does someone have a wiring diagram they can post/send me?

Oh - my car is a '71 NADA 2000 TC.

TIA,

Jim
 
Hello Jim,

Certainly in the case of the V8, the differences between the 11AC and 18ACR in terms of both the mounting hardware and the wiring is quite significant. Sadly I am not familiar with their positioning on the 4 cylinder engine, but I am sure that assistance will be given by a forum member who is.

Ron.
 
Thanks Ron,

I am trying to find the brush holder, or an 11 ACR I can strip. Unfortunately, I have 2 Rover engines w/18 ACRs, a Metro w/ an 18, and Minis & a Landcrab w/dynamos. I have a friend who's local who has an Aladdin's cave - I'll give him a shout. I need the car ASAP, so really don't want to mess with brackets, spacers, etc. :)

Cheers,

Jim
 
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