Lug centric wheel nuts

koogie

koogie

Member
I was just wondering, with the sleeved type of lug nuts that actually go through the wheel and have flat washers, surely they cant be that accurate when centreing the road wheel, especially when compared to conical lug nuts. What are your thoughts on this?
 
They hold the Revolutions on Bruiser alright. I'm not too sure what you're getting at though, the wheel definitely can't go off-centre when fitted.
 
Hi, sorry about the vagueness, but with the conical lug nuts because of their shape I would imagine they centre the wheel on the hub better compared to the sleeved lug nuts which would have clearance because the sleeve goes through the wheel so possibly mis-centreing it. My concern is vibration caused by this mis-centreing or what effect this may have on road holding.
 
In my experience with the Revolutions, there is no vibration whatsoever at any speed & the road-holding is like the proverbial in contact with a blanket. Clearance is obviously precision engineered to be no more or less than is needed between wheel & nut & the washers should be a precise fit around the nut & within the wheel recess.
 
I would have thought that the bore in the centre of wheel should be a snug fit onto the hub and this is essentially helps centre the wheel? I can understand your concern Koogie. With the wheel on the car and all 5 (or 4?) sleeved lug nuts finger tightened, surely the the wheel isn't sliding about on the face of the hub?

:) I can still remember as a kid, my Dad showing me how to fit a car wheel and told me to tighten in a "star" pattern to help make sure the wheel was centred:-

lugwrench-pattern.gif
 
Yes Ivy, the wheel should center on the boss. ( I've seen wheels fitted where the center bore is too large, from another car. Aspcer should be used)
The nuts only apply the clamping force.
Tightening them in a "star" or cross pattern is to ensure the wheel is up to the flange all around.
This is good practice on every thing. Screw all bolts fully home before tightening any.
Do they still teach apprentices this kind of practice?
 
Hi Chaps, my wheels aren't hub centric and so are only centred by either the conical or sleeved nuts depending what wheel is fitted. My alloys use the sleeved nuts, steels the conical type, I recently bought the alloys and after a bit of research have just ordered/received the sleeved nuts for them, but the way they centre compared to my steels seem inferior. When fitted the alloys do have some side to side movement caused by the clearance. I think I may get some part worns fitted on them as at the moment they're just the bare rims and see what happens.
 
I have 14" SD1 Alloys with sleeve nuts. Fitting the back wheels on yesterday I found I had to engage the sleeves into all 5 holes to align the wheel before tightening, and there was minimal play when the wheels were on, but not tightened. Any less clearance and I would not have got the wheels on. My wheels have been refurbished and powder coated, any more paint in the wheel stud holes and I would have been stuffed. The only way to check for concentricity would be to use a DTI gauge, or maybe a piece of wire clamped to a fixed point and resting against the rim edge and the wheel rotated, but to the naked eye they were fine an dandy.



John.
 
starting with part worns is a good idea anyway. P6's are notorious for the huge amount of positive offset required to get the wheel centred in the rear wheel arch (front to back). So part worns will allow you to discover at moderate cost how much clearance you will have against the D post.

Chris
 
TBH, I think you can over-think things sometimes. Very many wheels use these types of nuts & I'm not aware of any major concerns over wheel centering. Obviously if the hub centre is too big for the wheel then a re-think is neccessary, but other than that...........
 
Yes, I agree with what you say about the over thinking of things, maybe I'm just being finicky. I'm going to get hold of some part worns to try out soon, I'm reasonably confident I've got the clearance but of course I wont know until they are actually fitted, will post my findings.
 
Hi Chaps, just an update on the situation. My alloys are now on, any concerns I had thankfully didnt materialise, seem to have adequate clearance and appear to run with minimal runout. Result.
I think they look rather nice.
rover_zps39819aac.jpg
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