LHD Manual steering box - A question

cobraboy

Well-Known Member
#1
Guys
Is there a difference between a LHD and a RHD Manual steering box ?
I know the part numbers are different, but was wondering if the actual casting was the same ? and maybe it was the forked arms on the bottom that was handed ?

I am musing as to whether I can mount a manual steering box in place of the idler in order to make a much more solidly mounted pivot for the steering on the nearside of the car.

So anyone know if the castings are the same ? as RHD manual boxes are available easily and maybe the idler fork would bolt up on a steering box ?
 

mrtask

Well-Known Member
#4
Cobraboy, you're suggesting using a second steering box instead of the standard steering idler? What problem are you having with your steering that is making you think about a "more solidly mounted pivot"?
 

cobraboy

Well-Known Member
#5
I have a situation when under hard braking the car will pull to the left, it is a problem that has dogged the car since fitting the wider wheels and tyres.
I also improved the braking, so the combination of moving the wheels outward - so screwing up the scrub radius and the larger contact area with the road and improved stoppers means the standard steering is unable to keep the nearside wheel pointing in the right direction.

Under normal driving conditions the car is absolutely fine, under hard braking I know exactly what the car will do and can compensate easily to bring the car to a stop safely. However I am working to resolve it.

Under suspension compression the steering actually toes in, but under severe braking I have a nearside front wheel toeing out.

The linkage from the swivel pivot to the idler and the link across the firewall to the steering box are under extension forces during this situation. The steering box certainly cannot move, so my attention at the moment is focused on the idler. This has been re bushed and is fitted on the later type bracket.

My next step is to borrow a go pro camera from a friend and film the idler under hard braking to see if it is moving. I have just acquired another late type idler bracket which I am going to add extra material to in order to support the idler lower down, as well as adding a plate across all of the mounting holes.
I had considered another steering box would be a certain way of getting zero flex.

Another thought is maybe the top of the swivel pillar is moving rearward under braking, thus turning the wheel outward ? For this to happen the bell crank pivot bushes must be toast. They look fine, but maybe I should turn up some Teflon bushes and play with those, unless they are available off the shelf ?

So there you have it. Answers on a postcard please - crate of beer to the solver of the puzzle.
 

sdibbers

Well-Known Member
#6
What’s the bulkhead like around the top control arm mount? Any chance of flexing there? What about the control arm bushes?
 

cobraboy

Well-Known Member
#7
I cannot see any signs of cracking around the pivot mounts for the bell crank arm, I don't know if the front skin of the bulkhead could deform, the studs go through to the second skin but I don't know if there are spacer tubes in between on the inboard mount ?

A while ago I made Teflon bushes for the lower control arms only to find that the two arms wont come together when mounted with solid bushes, the arms need to flex sideways through the arc of travel when joined together and this is not possible when solid bushed. I then bought new bushes for all the lower arms.

Thanks
 

mrtask

Well-Known Member
#8
Thanks for taking the time to so concisely explain your issue, and in doing so satisfy my curiosity. I can't add anything useful. I'm afraid.
If you do manage to take video from inside the engine bay it would be interesting to see it all at work in action.
 

sdibbers

Well-Known Member
#9
A while ago I made Teflon bushes for the lower control arms only to find that the two arms wont come together when mounted with solid bushes, the arms need to flex sideways through the arc of travel when joined together and this is not possible when solid bushed. I then bought new bushes for all the lower arms.
That makes total sense considering the top CA pivot axis is 90 degrees to the bottom CA.
The mount through the bulkhead skin has always made me wonder about rigidity too. Although the structure is pretty well built out near there. Wasn't there a strengthening gusset available at one time for that area?
 

cobraboy

Well-Known Member
#10
Happy to oblige Mr Task.

sdibbers
I do not know of any gusset to the bell crank bulkhead mounts, if anyone does know pray tell. I only know of the Australian mod to the bottom of the damper.

I may pack the area between the idler and its bracket with plasticine, if there is any flex going on there then that would show it.


We have a saying at work, 'If it was easy they'd all be doing it' …….:rolleyes:
 
Top