Kick down cable issue

[Kiwirob]

Just got back to this, previous replaced kickdown cable, cam returns correctly etc, charged fluid, filter, adjusted bands. Problem is that to get the inner cable to attach to carb linkage, It requires the outer part of the cable to be wound up to high, resulting in a fairly harsh engagement into drive or reverse. I assume the line pressure is to high?, if I detach cable and back off the outer cable we get a soft engagement. Linkage bushes are fine, I am wondering if since the engine is not original, there is some out of tolerance between the original box and this linkage? I was considering to extend the linkage downwards slightly to meet the cable? As far as adjustment of the outer part of the cable goes, is this set by roadtest and shift points or by reading the pressure at the rear of the box? The cable is a direct replacement of the original, which was crimped at the wrong point for this application at least.

 

[harveyp6]

Problem is that to get the inner cable to attach to carb linkage, It requires the outer part of the cable to be wound up to high, resulting in a fairly harsh engagement into drive or reverse. I assume the line pressure is to high?, if I detach cable and back off the outer cable we get a soft engagement.

Winding the outer cable upwards reduces the pressure, not increases it, so I can't see how that can be the cause of the harsh engagement. If the adjuster is wound all the way up until it won't go any further and the engagement is still harsh, all you can do is put the locknut on the top of the bracket rather than underneath and that will give you extra travel amounting to the thickness of the lock nut. If you detatch the inner cable, then whatever you do to the outer cable will have no effect on the pressures whatsoever unless the crimp is fixed on the inner cable and touching the top of the outer cable.

Linkage bushes are fine, I am wondering if since the engine is not original, there is some out of tolerance between the original box and this linkage? I was considering to extend the linkage downwards slightly to meet the cable? As far as adjustment of the outer part of the cable goes, is this set by roadtest and shift points or by reading the pressure at the rear of the box? The cable is a direct replacement of the original, which was crimped at the wrong point for this application at least.

You can set the cable in any one of three ways:
1) With the sump off adjust the cable so the heel of the cam is resting on the valve, but there is no slack in the cable.
2) With an accurate tachometer and pressure guage tapped into the pressure take off in the rear of the box.
3) By roadtesting until you get the correct shift speeds. (All listed in the WM)

The last is by far the easiest.

The usual problem with replacement cables is a discrepancy between the lengths of the inner and outer cables.

You could "adjust" the linkage down to meet the cable, but only if everything else is correct (which it most likely isn't) in which case the linkake must be bent or twisted out of alignment, which I have seen, but not very often.

 

[Kiwirob]

Thanks for that Harvey, I checked both cables side by side and they were identical in their dimensions. I made sure with the pan off, that the cable returned fully. I have the nut on top, so still have some travel to adjust.
When I fitted the new cable I needed to remove the crimp as it was positioned such that the cable couldn't return completely. Prior to refixing to the linkage I started the car and their was no issue with engagement. I was thinking that's good!, till I then went to fit it. Anyway I check if winding it up further actually remedies the situation. Thanks again for your help.

 

[harveyp6]

When I fitted the new cable I needed to remove the crimp as it was positioned such that the cable couldn't return completely.

On a new cable the crimp should be free on the inner cable, it should not be crimped.

 

[Kiwirob]

The replacement cable was off another box.