Its True!

oldbloke

Active Member
These old classics need and want to be driven! I try to take my '70 NADA out at least twice a week and let the old girl kick up her heels. With more than 200K on the clock I swear she is running better and marking her territory far less copiously. I am picking up a rebuilt engine in 10 days with 3.9 heads, FI and other improvements for pending transplant, but am starting to understand how some I know of (ie-Glen Towery) have gotten over 500K out of these 3.5Ls. I may just keep driving till I have to do a transplant! :D
 
Just goes to show that well maintained 'old tech' V8's can cover high mileages without drama.

Mark.
 
I certainly agree. The best care that any owner can provide to their Rover is to drive it often. Too many owners fuss and change parts prematurely, and what is far worse, they then don't drive them enough.

I was talking to the owner of a Land Rover V8 County not too long ago. His engine had covered over 500,000km, with the camshaft and lifters being the only parts that he said he had replaced. These, he would change every 250,000km. He had rebuilt the Stromberg carburettors once in that time so he said. The vehicle was in excellent condition to look at, and the engine sounded lovely.

Ron.
 
My fiver lives outside all year round and does at least 100 miles every week for work etc-but never in the snow-as salt would make her rust---she does not leak in the rain nor leaves oil stains---only showboats leak and mark their territory---
 
My 3500s and I have covered a little over 21,000 miles together since July 2013 and it never misses a beat (famous last words).

My Defender which used to be my daily drive is now noticeably less happy with being driven only at weekends, throwing far more niggly problems at me than it used to prior to the P6 arriving on the scene.
 
I've also noticed that when I started using my V8 after a 5 year layup, I could barely reach 60mph. She now quite happily cruises all day long at much higher ( legal) speeds... :)
 
Wow Quagmire! Would love to get that many miles out of my P6! What is the year of yours? SU carbs? Jim
 
Hi Jim, its official build date is 31st of December 1973, its running on SU's with upgraded ignition (Megasquirt controlled Ford EDIS coilpacks), ten bolt heads and Vitesse wheels.

The change to the ignition has been the biggest factor in improving reliability and driveability, with the dizzy I was having to adjust the points fairly often to keep things nice and crisp, not anymore! :D
 
How easy is the megasquirt conversion and what costs are involved ? How did you setup the advance curve ? I am considering the ignition 123 distributor but have noticed the megasquirt. How easy is it to pick up the ford module ?
 
Picking up this rebuilt 215 with 3.9 heads and other mods with EFI this week. PO says I may want to look into the megasquirt FI as this set up does't seem to like the lumpy cam. Comments of those with megasquirt or opinion of same?
 

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I have fitted MS to both my Landrover, and also my P6.

The Defender is fuel injected, whilst at the moment the Megasquirt on the P6 is only controlling ignition. The installation (so far) in the P6 is covered in my project thread, and starts around here with the fitting of the toothed wheel etc. Note that I was controlling the ignition with a Megajolt unit at first, which is different to Megasquirt as it only does ignition and cannot do fuel. The Megasquirt was fitted a few posts later. In both instances the MJ/MS were controlling a Ford EDIS module, running Ford coil packs:

http://www.classicroverforum.net/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=16625&start=105

I built the ignition map based on the Rover figures published for my model of distributor.

EDIS 8 modules can be bought from suppliers here in the UK (no Ford V8's here, so none in the scrappies) or you can do what I did and buy from the US on ebay - EDIS modules are about £40, and coil packs can be had for a fiver each with leads if you are patient. The coilpacks are plentiful and were fitted to all late 90's/early 00's Fords.

That all said, if you go straight in with Megasquirt you can control many different types of ignition, including COP or Coil near plug setups; you are not limited to using EDIS only. Another option is to keep the dizzy with the advance mech locked out and MS controlling advance through that - this does give you flexibility of programmable advance, with the period look, but you will still have some inaccuracies in timing due to slop in the dizzy - this is completely eliminated with a crank triggered setup.

In terms of how easy it is, then the steps you have to go through (for EDIS ignition and fuel on an already EFI'd engine are):

Buy MS kit (or ready made) - see http://www.diyautotune.com - The MS2 v3 kit I have in the P6 is here: http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/...le-efi-system-pcb30-kit-black-case-p-119.html
Fit trigger wheel and VR sensor http://www.trigger-wheels.com
Mount EDIS module, coilpacks, Megasquirt module (MS should not be mounted in the engine bay).
Wire everything up (see manuals on http://www.msextra.com)
Fit Manifold Air Pressure line to manifold and pipe back to the MS (you can bin the AFM on the hotwire).
Fit a wideband oxygen sensor - you will need one to tune fuel. Spartan widebands have a good rep from http://www.14point7.com

Then the real fun starts, setting it all up...

You must check that your timing is correct with a light. When the MS is commanding a figure, that is what you should see with the light. This is crucial in not blowing stuff up. If you find that the timing is out by a couple of degrees, that is ok - you can adjust the "trim" in the software to compensate. If it is wildly out you will need to adjust the wheel/sensor position until it is close.

You need to calibrate you throttle position sensor (TPS), Inlet air temp sensor (IAT) and Coolant temp sensor (CLT) - this is all covered in the Megasquirt manuals.

The MS has a "base map" that should start and run your car, this is not optimised in any way. You will need to input your ignition map, and target fuel map. You can then go out for a drive with the laptop plugged in running "Tunerstudio". This has a whizzy feature called "VEAL" which will update the fuel table as you drive until it matches your AFR targets.

Once you have your ignition and fuel maps you have to tune the other bits like Acceleration (AE) and Warm-up enrichments (WUE) - Tunerstudio also does automatic WUE tuning, which is nice.

Tunerstudio is free, but you wont get VEAL in an unregistered version - I think it is about $40 to register, which is well worth it. http://www.tunerstudio.com/

Once you have the fuelling and timing all done including cold starts and accel enrichment you can move onto whizzy things like closed loop idle control (if you have an Idle air valve fitted), controlling your electric fans, shift lights, launch control/flat shift etc.

I would say that if you want to fit EFI and forget, then stick to the Hotwire. If you like a project then go for MS - its an interesting learning experience!
 
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