Thanks Chris,
I'm doing this in my garage and shed at home, fortunately both have power and light!
Ultimately I may not need to change the crank and rods even if they are as I suspect cast, but I have to budget for it at this stage.
Actually the Heron head is not that bigger problem in the Rover's case as the piston crown design is quite good and you can promote quite good gas flow with very little work. Although ultimate race spec engines usually have a "chambered head" you can get serious BHP out of a Ford Kent with the original flat head!
Sadly neither a 2200 engine or cylinder head are permited for homologation purposes in FIA Historic Rallying, which is where we are aiming for eventually. Wouldn't buy the engine anyway as I like doing my own builds when I can.
Your recommendation is much appreciated though as I may be able to get some advice regarding the roll cage and some other details.
So far I have a 72 TC in very good condition having been a private museum piece for the last five years. So far I have stripped out the interior (thus saving about 25lbs more than the weight of the cage!) and am in the process of cleaning the floor pan, inner sills, A, B and C posts prior to welding in stiffeners and the cage. When thats done I shall move on to the suspension and brakes and will finish off with the drive train. Hopefully I will get this all done by the middle of next year. We shall see.
Steve