Is the box cooked? Replacement option? - Bi-polar gearbox causing concerns.

Rovertron

Member
The chariot is due it's MOT next month and bar a nearside front bearing squeaking, I'm not expecting major issues.

So doing the MOT prep with all the service items, I checked the ATF. The gearbox is a Borg Warner 35 mated to a V8 Series 1.

It's gone a purple colour definitely not the cherry red of Type F) but it doesn't smell burnt but still 'sweet'. The fluid was changed four years ago by the previous owner (as much as you can) and it's always been a reasonable colour. Dropping a bit onto white card and then some clean fluid, the colour difference was quite stark.

Last year, I had a similar dilemma, my previous garage chemically tested a sample of ATF and it showed up no nasties. Other than an Wynns additive I put in (which was ok'd by the garage) nothing more than the odd top-up has been required.

I usually top it up as the cork seals weep, however, there was one spell where despite the dipstick reading (taken cold and warm as there are markings for both) the gearbox started doing strange things and it could well have been running low. I topped it (requiring a pint) and it was fine.

More recently, I've noticed it either holds 1st for too long or drops 1st straight to second (when poodling around). 2nd to 3rd upchange can be as expected or occasionally it will require me to lift off the throttle to engage 3rd, sometimes manual intervention is required shifting to D2 and then changing to D3 to make it happen.

Sometimes the change is hardly noticeable, sometimes it will shunt and there's no rhyme or reason to it in terms of throttle or speed. Once the gear is engaged though, it locks up nicely allowed for good progress, the engine doesn't need to wind out too much at all before serious progress is being made :)

And for the majority of the time, it's a well behaved smooth box.

I'm totally baffled.

Add to the mix that there is a whine at idle that's sounds louder than it has been.

My real worry is no gears and no traction on a Sunday afternoon cruise and the inherent costs of not getting to a mechanic.

I'd be happy with a straight replacement BW35 but am curious to know how difficult it is to convert to a 65?

How difficult are they to source? It is case of straight swap?

All advice greatly appreciated either on the suspected longevity of my current 'gearbox' or on recon/replace ideas.

Cheers in advance.

Just edited to add that last time I tried it, kickdown did engage quite nicely in 3rd at about 50mph. It changed up smoothly.




Edited By Rovertron on 1204565280
 
The colour change is probably due to the additive, if it still looks and smells OK.
I trust you are following the correct procedure to check the level?
Check hot on level ground engine running in Park after running thru the range giving each position a few seconds to select.
If you have Hot and Cold markings that is the early type dipstick.

With the driving faults check that the kickdown cable is not sticking, if it is it could cause erratic faults. It's difficult to be more specific without being sure of the selector pattern, and a road test.A little more info would help.

The whine could be low fluid level or a blocked filter.

35 boxes can be upgraded, fitting a 65 needs a selector cable and the bracket for it fitted to the tunnel.
Whatever way you decide to go it should be no problem to someone who knows what they're doing.




Edited By harveyp6 on 1204570795
 
Hi Harvey,

Thanks for taking the trouble to read my diatribe.

The car is a '69 V8 with Cold Min and Max on the bottom part of the dipstick spade, Hot Min and Max on the top part.

In terms of checking the level, I did it warm more by luck as I was tested the thermostat on the Kenlowe after tidying up its wiring. However, didn't check it in Park with the engine running. Will do this when I get a chance next weekend.

In terms of selector pattern, the arrangement is (from bottom to top of the lever) 1, 2, D3, N, R, P at the top. Only D3 allows fully automatic, there's no half-throttle kickdown, only full kickdown from 3 to 2 when D3 is selected.

Doing some reading up on the BW35 last night, in terms of reducing accelerator pressure, it should upshift which it does nicely although at times there can be a delay.

Certainly on the top up, I think I may have slightly overfilled it as I had a small drop of fluid spill from the overflow.

I topped up as usual, running the engine with the fluid warm, placing some in a funnel and then going through the selector from 1 to P, holding each for a few seconds.

A sticking kickdown cable sounds possible to me as I hardly ever use the kickdown. I do have the correct workshop manual for the car - I take it full instructions on set up can be found there? I'm aware that loose accelerator linkages can be a problem, to go for that first, where are these located? The cable details I can find in the workshop manual.

As for a blocked filter, again it's possible as the fluid is coming up for four years old and I have no idea if the previous owner replaced the gearbox filter prior to emptying and re-filling. I do remember him telling me with some pride that he's filled it, emptied it and filled it again to get at the fluid in the convertor.

With about 5 odd-litres sloshing about, I take it that emptying is achieved by loosening off the sump bolts and waiting for a deluge? ;) Again, disposal is a problem where I live so I might ask the MOT garage to do this for me, sourcing 10 litres of TQF isn't a problem to empty, fill, empty, fill for a decent stab at a flush. The sump seal is cork and could do with replacing really.
 
Regardless of whether you use the "kickdown" the cable moves all the time in normal use, so if it frays and snags up it can cause problems.
The PRND21 is the later selector pattern but that's not to say that's the type of gearbox you've got, loads of cars get the wrong plate fitted. The bushes for the throttle linkage are only fitted to the later type short cable so have a look and see whether the cable ends up at the carbs or the rear of the cyl head.
IIRC all V8 35 boxes have a drain plug (2000's dont) but I may be wrong.

The book does tell you how to adjust the cable but not in a particularly helpful way.
 
Harvey,

That's brilliant, I think you've got it as it sounds like a problem with the kickdown cable then. I had no idea that cable was in permanent use. The accelerator has felt binded from time to time, a bit more resistance than normal which I put down to a stiff throttle cable.

Indeed there are two cables leading to the carbs so one must be the kickdown cable, I shall take a look at it, both these cables have jackets and maybe a bit of lubrication might help.

Yes, the manual can be 'enigmatic', the brake pressure sensor does not exist according to the manual I have, helpful when I had problem with mine, still there's always this forum :) I shall persevere :)

Many, many thanks.
 
Just a heads up. I think I've solved it. A combination of the diagnostic matrix and the up/downchange charts in the workshop manual, got me enough info to go for a run and test the box.

Also reading the manual there are a couple of throttle sensitive mph ranges I wasn't aware of ; there are two kickdown ranges one at 30mph and another 40-50mph. So that might explain some the 'characteristics' I was experiencing.

After a couple of run-outs it seems the kickdown cable was slightly out as the light throttle upchange ranges were a little on the high side especially 2 to 3. Adjusting to shorten the cable it's now acceptable. I also adjusted the slow running screws on the carbs to lower the engine idle and it's a much smoother proposition crawling through town.

Fortunately as it was quiet on the roads so I even got to use the 50mph full throttle kickdown and holding the throttle it changed up to 3rd bang on the middle of the range at 70. All the reverse tests were fine at low speed as well.

The whine seems to have subsided a lot and I suspect because the box is now topped up but the pesky cork seal weeps fluid when it's warm. I think a few of the maladies can be traced back to losing fluid (about an eggcup full a run) over the course of a couple of months.

The manual suggests a fluid change every 5000 miles and it's nearly up to that so I've managed to source a filter and new seal. I'll flush the box as much as I can and fit the new filter. I usually use a Forte conditioner but I'll hold fire on that and see if the fluid degrades.

Needless to say I'm relieved, sourcing a new sump filter through Wadhams and out of curiousity got a quote £700+vat to re-con my box. Ouch.

Many, many thanks Harvey for your advice.
 
It's amazing just how many problems can be sorted on the 35 box just by making sure fluid level, linkage adjustment and kickdown adjustment are correct.

There are two types of filter for 35 boxes, early and late, early can be fitted to later boxes (but shouldn't be) but not vice-versa.

I know someone who can overhaul boxes to a very high standard for a lot less than that! (if you remove refit, but even with that it doesn't come to much more.)
 
I agree, I was frankly astonished that some simple adjustments made all the difference. When I get the sump off, I'll double-check the adjustment as I'll be able to see what kind of contact I'm getting with the kickdown radius arm.

On my last run with the cable shortened, it was right on the money through all five tests; also kickdown was instant. I think because the slow running screws on the carbs had been given about a 1/2 turn, the idle is probably down a couple of hundred revs which I guess has taken the throttle down to 'light throttle' in the manual. My feet aren't that refined on that pedal :D

Only when I did this, did the light throttle 7-10mph for 2nd and 14-21mph for 3rd start to come in on band.

I've opted for the 'gun' type filter for the later model as the box doesn't behave as a D2/D3 box (the early type) as the box doesn't have a D2 mode running through the tests.

Honestly, I should have read the manual before using the box and car as it's not as simple a box to use as you would believe.

I'm in two minds about Wadhams, they do stock a hell of a lot of unusual parts (I had rang round quite a few places including my usual supplier) However, they always strike me as a bit sniffy over the phone and can be pricey.
 
The early filter is not only for the PRND2D1L box it also fits the earlier PRND21 boxes as well, (all except the 303 I think) and the later one WON'T FIT unless you have the later (303)valve block. The safe way is to remove the sump before you order and see what filter you have, and what valve block as well. These boxes are so old now that all sorts of bits get fitted where they shouldn't.
Personally I certainly wouldn't buy a recon box from Wadhams, but that is only my personal viewpoint.




Edited By harveyp6 on 1205182015
 
After reading this I feel I need to do some fettling to my own BW35 'box. My 2nd to 3rd change has started to become delayed (before I put it away for the winter) so I guess I'll need to check the thottle linkage bushings and the kickdown cable adjustment.

How critical is the pressure test when adjusting it? I don't have access to anything like that so can it be done satisfactorily just by road testing as Rovertron did?

By the way, mine seems to force ATF up out of the top of the kickdown cable a few days after a long run despite checking the breather and the ATF level being correct - any ideas?
 
Setting the pressures on a road test is fine if you know what you need to achieve. I've never had a pressure box and never had any problems.

The fluid from the converter can run back into the box and raise the level so that it leaks out, normally from the breather, but I have seen it come out of the kickdown cable as well.
 
Thanks for that Harvey, I'll follow the roadtest and adjustment procedure in the workshop manual when the weather's better and see what happens.
 
Re: Is the box cooked? Replacement option? - Bi-polar gearbox ca

Just a quick post.

I had the new sump gasket and auto-box filter gathering dust from last year (see above, SWMBO wouldn't let me change it on the driveway for fear of spillage) so I had the garage fit it as part of a gearbox oil flush as part of it's pre-MOT 'service'.

Hey presto, whining gone too. Thought I'd let you know.
 
Re: Is the box cooked? Replacement option? - Bi-polar gearbox ca

Rovertron said:
Hey presto, whining gone too. Thought I'd let you know.

That's because you let the garage do it, and so didn't let the oil spill over the driveway.

(Oh, sorry, you mean the whining from the gearbox! :LOL: )

Good to hear a filter sorted it.
 
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