indicator repair kit

G

gosnell

New Member
Has any had body any experience of the JR Wadhams indicator body repair kits ? and how it fits onto the existing body, made in s/steel cost £20


Regards John
 
Is this a replacement bulb holder assembly ? Has anyone tried using the old type bulb holders that clipped into the back of the lens assembly ( BL 1100 / 1300's and Oxfords and Cambridges used them to name but a few ) and bond them into the P6 lamps with epoxy or similar ?
 
That's a splendid and sensible idea Dave! Assuming the visible front of the lamp cluster remains reasonably presentable, then the problem is usually rot around the lamp holders. With new clusters now fetching around £80 a throw for rears and anything up to £125 for fronts, drilling out the original holders and replacing with larger is the obvious way forward.

Pilkie, I think, also has a view that the foam gasket between the cluster and the body is a prime culprit and misses it out altogether. I agree the foam is a problem - as far as I can see it is open cell foam which holds water! I'm unsure about doing without altogether. I have a feeling you are open to streaks emerging from under the front light cluster down the body. When I next get my hands on Lucky I intend to see if I can track down some rubber sheet to do the same job.

Chris
 
Yes Chris!
''Twas me that doesn't fit them,and yes, you do get a little "extra" streaking on the wing in the wet,but that is easily sorted with a damp cloth/chamois,and far more preferable to rotted out or duff light units!
If you fit a solid rubber seal/gasket,it will still trap a certain amount of dirt and water via capillary action,with none fitted, then gravity and air flow help to keep things as dry as poss. :)
BTW??
Where is Lucky?,has he gone for a drive by himself ??? :LOL:
 
I'll have to dig on out and photo, but I repaired some lamp clusters for my old convertible, I bought some cheap new universal tail lamps, bit like mini round lamps, and used the holders. I used some fibreglass PCB to mount the holder and cover any gaps.

I also used clear silicone sealer to make gaskets up, put a good thick bead on, then fitted the covers losely until it set, then tightened down, same for the cluster to body seal.
 
I can't resist trying to save a bit of money ,that to me is part of the fun- seeing what you can repair with bits from the scrap box.
 
My lamps were holed around the indicator, I wrapped masking tape around the outside to seal them and then poured resin into the gap between the reflector and the body so that it filled the space and encapsulated the holder, been like that for 15 years now and no problem. Oh and I used a rubber capless bulb holder for the side lamp, pulled out the steel holder and filed the hole round and squeezes the ruber holder in its place.
 
One problem about front and rear side indicator assemblies is that the sponge gasket between the assembly and the wing still allows mud and water to be splashed by the wheel. That contributes to the "Pot Metal" corrosion of the lamp assembly.

On a new restoration, after painting, I sealed the back of the assembly with a non-silicone sealer. I would use a plastic bread bag or other thin plastic, push the wires through, and seal from behind. That would move the sealant away from actually touching the assembly although you *would* get sealant on the wires.

That procedure should prolong the life span of the assemblies. It did for me. :)

Eric
RCCC
 
Paint the back of the lamps with Waxoyl and enlarge the drain hole at the bottom of the recess the lamp fits in
 
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