Ignition timing problems

Cooper99

Cooper99

Member
I have tried to adjust the ignition timing on my 2200 TC which should be 8 BTDC. If I adjust the distributor to this the engine runs very bad, but it runs good at around 15-20 BTDC. What could be the cause to this? Could it be possible that the vibration damper/pulley may have been incorrectly fixed/mounted sometime in the past? Is it possible to fix/mount it wrong? Could it be that I have a distributor from another model?
 
I'd start by checking that when number one piston is at TDC the timing pointer lines up with the TDC mark on the pulley. If not you have to find out why it doesn't. If it does line up then I'd peg the crank and camshaft. If the cam peg is out of line you need to fix that. If those things are both as they should be then we can move forward from there.
 
I've now checked that the timing pointer lines up with TDC mark on pulley when No1 piston (from front) i at TDC (not exactly aligned in the picture). I can see through the spark plug hole that the piston turns down just after the TDC marking pass the pointer.



I've also checked the camshaft after pegging the crank, and it seems like the camshaft is a bit out of line.


So, I suppose I have to fix that first, to see if it helps so I then can set the ignition timing correctly. I've read Redrovers post on the subject (viewtopic.php?f=2&t=11760&start=15), and understood that its important to be careful with the upper chain tensioner, so I'm a bit worried of that. What's your advice, should I remove the tensioner before I follow the method in Redrovers post, or should I leave it in place? If I leave it, I've understood that the trick is to always keep tension to the chain. Are there any other precautions I should take to prevent the tensioner to fall out?
 

Attachments

  • _DSC2379_2.jpg
    _DSC2379_2.jpg
    136.6 KB · Views: 710
  • _DSC2374_2.jpg
    _DSC2374_2.jpg
    54.3 KB · Views: 710
  • _DSC2366_2.jpg
    _DSC2366_2.jpg
    57.8 KB · Views: 710
You need to back the tensioner off before removing the cam gear and altering the vernier. Once the tensioner is backed off it might be an idea to secure the plunger with a sturdy cable tie so it doesn't spring out again and end up in the sump. (If you're lucky....).
 
Okey thanks, I'll do so then. When the vernier job is done and all things are back in its place, will the tensioner spring out and stop towards the chain when I release the cable tie? Or do I have to adjust it with the allen key?
 
I used to wind the tensioner back using the long end of a short allen key, the short end of which was hard against the head, which I left in place during all operations. I never used the cable tie, but, as a bit of extra insurance, bearing in mind the age of the tensioner, and the quality of replacements, if it's had one, I would now....

Once the job's done, flick the allen key back the opposite way and it will (or should) tension the chain correctly again.
 
Thanks for your help, and sorry for my novice questions, but this is the first time I work with these things and I don't want to do it wrong and loose the tensioner.

1. My chain tensioner is a French made Renold, which I can see when I look down the tube under the cover plate, has no plug in the back (I just see the bottom of the tube). I suppose I have to take out the tube to gain access to where the allen key is to be inserted to wind the tensioner back. Is that correct?

2. Is the purpose of the tube to "close" the allen key access hole, in order to build up oil pressure to the tensioner?

3. When the job is done, do you mean I shall turn the allen key the anticlockwise ("opposite way") for moving the tensioner head forward against the chain, or do I misunderstand you? Forum posts and the Rover manual says not to turn it anticlockwise.
 
Cooper99 said:
1. My chain tensioner is a French made Renold, which I can see when I look down the tube under the cover plate, has no plug in the back (I just see the bottom of the tube). I suppose I have to take out the tube to gain access to where the allen key is to be inserted to wind the tensioner back. Is that correct?
Click to expand...

If it doesn't have a plug, then it can't be wound back. All you can do is secure it with cable ties so it doesn't explode, and then remove it. That's progress.....

Cooper99 said:
2. Is the purpose of the tube to "close" the allen key access hole, in order to build up oil pressure to the tensioner?
Click to expand...

No the tube is to stop the plug (which you don't have) falling into the sump if you drop it.


Cooper99 said:
3. When the job is done, do you mean I shall turn the allen key the anticlockwise ("opposite way") for moving the tensioner head forward against the chain, or do I misunderstand you? Forum posts and the Rover manual says not to turn it anticlockwise.
Click to expand...

It's not something that's going to be a concern for you as you can't wind yours back. If you had a key you just nudge it back the opposite way, or if you have clearance, nudge the pad back into the body to reset it, but normally there isn't room to do that.
 
Ah okey.
It's very tight with space around the tensioner, but I have to try to get the cable tie in place. I suppose I can get the tube out a bit so there is clearence between the tube and the back of the tensioner, so the cable tie can be wrapped around the back and head of the tensioner.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top