Hungry bear grumbling in my engine bay

Exactly Harvey, did you recognised the bumper blade ringing iron? My Old Man had them from when he was an apprentice at a Rolls Royce, Daimler and Minerva garage in the 30's.

As an aside I put the water pump part no GWP 310 into Google and the usual Rover suspects came up with prices around £90ish give or take a bit. David manners has GWP 310 listed for an MG V8 at £48 inc VAT, £62 to my door, ordered late Friday, arrived by courier Monday lunch. I ordered a gasket, but one was included in the pump box. So £60 actually. Result.
http://www.jagspares.co.uk/Abingdon/company.asp
 
John said:
Exactly Harvey, did you recognised the bumper blade ringing iron? My Old Man had them from when he was an apprentice at a Rolls Royce, Daimler and Minerva garage in the 30's.
Click to expand...

I can't say I did recognise it. My mate who did panelwork on Rovers had a tool for use on P6's which was like a giant 3 (round) pin plug with 1" diameter pins, and an inch diameter steel handle about 4' long on it. Perfect for tweaking bumpers back into shape. (If you knew what you were doing, or turning them into scrap if you didn't.....)
 
John said:
My Old Man had them from when he was an apprentice at a Rolls Royce, Daimler and Minerva garage in the 30's.
Click to expand...

That's a long time ago, John. In fact it terrifies me to think how old you might be.
 
Warren, I'm the family 'Bonus' i.e. "At your age where the hell did that pregnancy come from, that's a bonus!" :LOL:
I was about the same age my dad was when I was born, when my eldest son went to university.


John.
 
Water pump is a piece of p*ss to remove and replace when you don't have to helicoil some of the small bolt holes in the front cover cos they are knacked....
 
Well.......
all the bolts are undoneish. One long one, and one short one, both snapped at the bolt head. Removing the PAS steering bracket was a nightmare but the bolts are finally out. I have left it soaking up Plus Gas because the long broken one has a right old grip in the alloy (cannot move the pump off it). My left hand packed up working so its a 48hr lay off for me, then heat on the pump to allow me to pull it off the bolts which are now studs. Phew! (I hope) :LOL:

John.
 
You will more than likely find John that those long bolts will have a fair old grip on the timing cover also, meaning, you guessed it, removing the timing cover as well, which you will need to do to get a purchase on the bolts near the threads in the block (and to apply plus gas, wd40 etc) at these threads also. Any coolant which has leaked onto these bolts to cause the corrosion (and grip) in the first place will have found its way along the timing cover and into the threads also, hope they are not too tight, but be aware also that at these 4 long bolts, the lower r/h thread in the block usually breaks through into the water jacket (as I found on my two blocks after cleaning out with a tap and blowing the muck out with comp air) and if it applies to your case when you fit a new long bolt at this r/h lower thread (the other three threads have plenty meat around them) it will be best to apply some thread sealing compound so water doesn't leak past the thread, I replaced my bolts with studs and applied a gasket sealant to the offending thread into the block. I must say that studs are better so you can apply sealant and do all your tightening at the other end of the stud rather than at the thread in the block.
regards,
Scott
 
Cheers Scott, The one in the water jacket had cut through, this helped drain the residual coolant like the Little P1ssing Boy of Belgium. :LOL: I didn't open the block taps, just drained from the coolant pipes.
Tomorrow will tell me more of how bad the grip is in the housing........ I think stainless studding is the way forward also.


John.
 
Well, it's got a grip like a scrapmans pitbull, but I have found the flash point of Plus Gas! :LOL: This time I had a pressurised garden spray set on mist, so my lawn was safe.
Plan B is now going to being put into operation, 5/16th" or 8 m/m id tube, saw toothed around the edge, heated and quenched to harden then used to trepan down the bolt shank, the water pump is scrap so It wont matter if I increase the clearance. I have used this method many years ago on side valve Standard engines which had alloy heads and did the same trick as this damn water pump. I hate Rovers I do! :shock:


John.
 
This is not going well, as Scott rightly said removing the timing chain cover might be necessary, but then I'll still have to drill this bolt back to the block as that will have the same grip in the timing chest. The trepanning idea works ish, but the crud is harder than a hookers heart, so I have got a 1/2" deep clearance cut down it and it's soaking in 46% phosphoric acid, (slightly stronger than Coca Cola). I appear to be making as much headway as a one legged man in an 4rse kicking contest here, any further idea will be greatly appreciated. Please be aware I'm partially disabled and after about 20 minutes working my left arm develops tossers colic.



John.
 
WooHoo, the B's off. I had to drill down the side of the bolt a few times, it was still stuck. Then out came my secret weapon (the best £3.60 spent on Ebay) An 8mm bore, 10mm od diamond grit ceramics tube tile drill. It was 1/4" too short and the B was still stuck so I rammed an old screwdriver into the gasket gap and smote it with a BFH. It moved slightly, then a bit more riving it came off.

Hole by the big pipe stub chewed up, and the diamond grit drill.

radout120913003_zpsac967e55.jpg


Bolt/stud now.

radout120913002_zpse64f4e71.jpg


I'm as happy as a stud dog with two, well you know..., I'm very happy :LOL:


Just got to get the bolt/stud out now...

John
 
After all that grief, I have just been to the garage, put some very small Vise Grips on the bolt/stud, small so as not to be able to apply any breaking force, and the damn thing came out finger tight. Result. As they say on TV "It's been a journey" :LOL:
Whilst I've got all the crap out of the way, ie PAS pump bracket, I'm going to recon the fuel pump, because I just know it will pack up after I've put the car back together.
What I haven't said about the problems of doing this, I managed to fall down the stairs 2 weeks ago so it has been doubly difficult for me. I now know I still bounce and not break, but my body has been like a Dulux colour chart for their new "Goth" range :shock:


John
 
Recon fuel pump back on, one bolt was finger tight and the bottom chamber diaphragm was holier than a tramps sock (this might explain the smell of petrol). Water pump back on, and I was about to fit the PAS pump and heavy duty belt, because the original belt was full of cracks, when a toilet seemed slow to flush. Cue United Utilities.......
They came, looked, sent a camera down, and went away, next day a man came and looked a said 2 to 3 weeks Guv, 4 days later 2 men came and dug a hole. the next day (today) they returned with a mini digger, dug a deeper wider hole, and buggered off like the SAS.
From my garden gate:

drivehole001_zps632e7579.jpg

Note how close the yellow barrier is to my garage door

This is why.....

drivehole005_zps5a05eb2d.jpg

The top of this pic is the edge of garage door, which I cannot open due to the girt lump of steel that is the support to my very own mine shaft jamming against it when just open it a crack. Brilliant..
We nearly had a new drive laid this summer, but put a new roof on the house instead. I would have been in tears if they had ripped up new block work.
 
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