Hi, greetings from Denmark

Hello to all.

I have had my P6B since '88, but it was only on the road for a couple of years in the early nineties. Lately my family persuaded me to clean out the garage and do the archeological excavations to bring it back to full daylight.

The base unit was dismantled, sand blasted and zinced around 1990. See an old article here The Fred Flintstone Modification

Doing the remaining restoration now. 'Mostly' a matter of bolting on the new outer panels that were restored, zinced and painted some 10 years ago. And finding a lot of bags and boxes with small items that have been found on eBay during the last 15-20 years.

Last week we attempted start-up, but bad points, bad coil, bad spark plugs, leaking carburettor. Ordered spares and with a bit of luck tomorrow will see another try
 
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Welcome to the forum, and congratulations on the work you did in the base unit.

Regarding starting, as you recently found out, copious amounts of starting spray and mercyless use of the starter motor cannot compensate for bad points, bad coil, bad spark plug and neglected carbs. Sometimes we get carried away, think of cars like they were humans, and try to "persuade" them into starting, as if we are discussing with someone else, trying to persuade him about something. Thankfully, cars of that age are much, much more simpler, and the only thing that they require to run are compressed air / fuel mixture and spark at the right time. If you don't cover these requirements, any effort is in vain.
Also, if you allow me an advice, raising the piston of an SU carb in any healthy idling engine, will make it stall. By doing it on an engine that you are trying to start, you are not helping the starting issue, you are doing exactly the opposite. You see, at low rpm (idling, starting motor speed) the carbs are relying to the narrow venturi between the carb bridge and the bottom of the piston, in order to have increased incoming air velocity that sucks the fuel out of the jet and into the engine. By raising the piston, you loose that effect, incoming air velocity drops dramaticaly, so the engine cannot draw any fuel in. So please remember that when you will have your sparks right there at the right time, with fresh fuel, leave the carbs alone to do their job.
As a last word, there are quite a few people (me among them) that despise the use of various starting sprays. The reason is that when they ignite they give the piston rings a bloody good hammering, that they were not designed to take.
 
Hello Anders.

Welcome to the forum. I hope you soon enjoy your finished project.

I am most impressed by your zinced base unit. Years ago when I first saw your car, I was motivated to galvanize as many small parts as I could. I am a fan of the hot dip galvanizing process, but I can’t apply it to such a complex structure, due to heat distortion. An electrolytic galvanizing method may be the answer, but I don’t know anyone who can handle such a big item with uneven thickness. I suppose that you overcame those problems using a metallization method with hot zing spray.

Please tell us how you achieved this fine result and post some detail pictures. I also intent to present both my galvanizing failures and successes.

George
 
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