Get an MOT done!

Phil Robson

Well-Known Member
I know that despite the exemption many of us still get our 40+ year old classics to an MOT tester each year, but can I urge ALL owners to do this?

I recently took Hazel (my series 1 V8) for its MOT and came away with the fail as shown:

IMG_4396 (2).jpg

This defect was not detectable by me, even though I keep a reasonably close eye on my cars' maintenance. What if I had to stop suddenly to avoid someone & the car didn't stop quite soon enough, or spun round when with good brakes it would have made a difference (potentially to someone's life)?

One of the usual suspects of course - a stuck piston. Incidentally, this is the Near side (the Off side was just as bad):


This has now been sorted with a service kit (which I seem to do a lot of these days...).

Cars do still of course need to be roadworthy and the MOT is an independent inspection that the car owner can place some reliance on. Most of us will have a safer car as a result.
Can see where you are coming from.
Us poor buggers in NZ have to get our cars MOT'd [WOF] every SIX months at a $55 cost for the inspection.
I keep an eye on my girl regularly and change parts as needed. One gets a feel when something is amiss and gets my attention.
In the last 15yrs Ive been [wof] failed on a marginally worn tie rod bush. It was 1% over the limit. I thought that was too severe as it put me off the road with no danger to anyone - so changed the tie rod and the tester.
In saying that my "New" friendly tester who is classic car sympathetic, will tell me to keep an eye on an issue that could develop- last time a slightly worn diff carrier bush and another time a weaping brake calliper. This gave me time to source the parts from O/Seas whilst still driving.
We don't have that requirement in Victoria Oz, though other states do.
That said I take the car to a very competent mechanic at least twice a year. Taking her to him tonight so the exhaust will be cold for the swap to ceramic coated manifolds tomorrow. (had a spare set coated a week ago).

On another point, would the park brake have been more than 50% effective when new? It is the one component that has always been dodgy in my experience.
I must say that mine have always been generally good ;)
Same here. I think a lot of mechanics over adjust the handbrake cable which stops the rear calipers self adjusting. It took a fair amount of work to make sure the calipers were in good condition on Beryl. The pistons had frozen in place in the past, the bores were sleeved in stainless and I’ve replaced the pistons with stainless steel ones from Mark Grey. The brakes have been great for the last 6-7 years since I did the work.