Gear whine 1st, 2nd and 3rd

pat180269 said:
harveyp6 said:
The noise in first second and third could be the layshaft bearings, but as they are totally immersed in oil all the time (or should be) then they rarely get very noisy, it's normally the input (first motion) shaft bearing as the helical gears introduce a side loading on that bearing when the drive goes through the layshaft, but either way, to know for certain the box needs to be removed, dismantled and inspected.
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Click to expand...

Just an update on this for those with similar problems.

The gearbox is out and harvey your diagnosis is absolutely spot on! HARVEY WE ARE NOT WORTHY!!!

You can move the input shaft side to side. Also I drained most of the oil out before I removed the box, when I got it out I turned the box on end to make more room in the garage. The remaining oil came out via the input shaft; presumably the worn bearing has caused oil seal failure.

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Please, this is probably a stupid question, but do you simply remove the clutch withdrawal race housing from within the bellhousing to access and change the primary pinion bearing or do you need to split the bellhousing from the gearbox casing for access?

Also, if you do need to split (and I imagine you do, if only because the forward end of the mainshaft must also be held by some sort of bearing in the back of the bellhousing), could you do so under the car and yet leave the bell housing in situ (just removing the gearbox casing and contents from the car)?

Honestly, it's not that I'm lazy - I just find that the less I dismantle, the less there is to go wrong!!

Ray
 
Hi, no you need to be in the bellhousing to remove the fixing that holds the layshaft
in its bearing as well. It's better all round to remove the g/box, once you get started
you will understand.

Colin
 
The bellhousings don't come off the gearbox casing. They'll come off about 3/8" and then lock solid because the main and lay shafts are fitted to the bellhousing, not into the main casing, in the same way that most FWD gearboxes are. They need to be dismantled from the rear forwards, not from the front backwards.
 
Hi, I bow to Harveys superior knowledge. I have just finished doing a series Land Rover g/box
and assumed they were of similar construction. I have never done a car g/box before because
the situation has never arisen. Harvey, not that I would want to, but can they be dismantled in
the tunnel? You would still have to remove the bellhousing from the engine to change both front
bearings. I personally am not keen on working upside down under the car, but sometimes needs
must.

Colin
 
colnerov said:
Hi, no you need to be in the bellhousing to remove the fixing that holds the layshaft
in its bearing as well. It's better all round to remove the g/box, once you get started
you will understand.

Colin
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Colin, Thank you..

I have now had a chance to see a spare gearbox and therefore it is now obvious to me that you cannot separate the bellhousing from the gearbox casing until (at the very least) you undo the 4 lock-nuts within the bellhousing!

Harvey, Got it....thought (as you say) the main and lay shafts must be fitted to the bellhousing, not into the main casing...Now obvious to me to dismantle from back to front........!

However, just out of interest, what do you mean by FWD gearboxes? (see what happens when you use JARGON) :!:

Thanks to you both.

Ray
 
colnerov said:
Harvey, not that I would want to, but can they be dismantled in
the tunnel? You would still have to remove the bellhousing from the engine to change both front
bearings. I personally am not keen on working upside down under the car, but sometimes needs
must.
Click to expand...

The bellhousing would have to be undone from the engine, and the gearbox moved back, to get at the nuts that hold the bellhousing to the main case, and at that point the box would be almost out anyway. Removing it is so easy that you wouldn't bother spending the extra time it would take not to.
 
raylish said:
However, just out of interest, what do you mean by FWD gearboxes? (see what happens when you use JARGON) :!:
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Front Wheel Drive. Early Escort and Cavalier ones were built up in the same way, but some of those could be dismantled in-situ leaving the main and lay shafts exposed on the bellhousing. (IIRC)
 
clutch change on a cavalier mk2/3 is unusually easy from what i was told or is that an urban myth?
 
rockdemon said:
clutch change on a cavalier mk2/3 is unusually easy from what i was told or is that an urban myth?
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Yep, about 1/2 to 3/4 hour. Retract the input shaft and drop the clutch out through an inspection plate at the bottom of the bellhousing. Great, until the diesel came out an then the clutch was too big to fit through the hole.... :roll:
 
didnt know that - makes me think a triumph 1500 would possibly be a good little town car.... :)
 
harveyp6 said:
The bellhousing would have to be undone from the engine, and the gearbox moved back, to get at the nuts that hold the bellhousing to the main case, and at that point the box would be almost out anyway. Removing it is so easy that you wouldn't bother spending the extra time it would take not to.
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Harvey,

Sorry to drone on, but if all I want to do is replace the primary pinion bearing, once the gearbox is out can I simply break the box at the bellhousing or do I have to dismantle the whole thing, please?

Ray
 
raylish said:
harveyp6 said:
Harvey,

Sorry to drone on, but if all I want to do is replace the primary pinion bearing, once the gearbox is out can I simply break the box at the bellhousing or do I have to dismantle the whole thing, please?

Ray
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

No, you need to dismantle the whole box, in fact the input shaft is the very last thing to come out, bringing the laygear with it.
 
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