Fitting power steering to 2000TC

Wash the box off and blow it dry and then you'll be able to see where the leak is coming from. Normal suspects are the input shaft seal, which leaks into the car, and the droparm seal on the bottom of the box. Steering box needs to be removed to do both really. I suppose it would be possible to do the input shaft seal in-situ but removing the column to do it would take longer than taking the box out.
 
Thanks for that, the leak is onto the floor and luckily not into the car. I can top it up for now whenever I take the car out for a run. The steering is much better and lighter with fluid in the box!!The car is going in for a carb tune up and fitting electronic ignition very soon so I can ask what the damage would be for sorting the leak. And the rear discs look a bit rusty and pitted too though the handbrake works well. At least that is not a major problem to solve.
 
Get the front end measured. I had a TC that had heavy steering when I got it, AND another whose steering was much lighter. Friends in the trade suggested the caster was too high - meaning that turning the wheels off centre was trying lift the whole front end. I packed the mounts of the dog leg on the bulkhead and it fixed the problem - as best I recall 1/16" was enough. Too much and you lose self-centering, which can be very scary.
 
I have a very good electric PAS pump if you want it. (peugeot).
You need a pump who do not always is on, there is a sensor for as you drive straight ahead, it is
to prevent worn out motor.

The sensor is on the steerings wheel, and sees where it is.
 
You need a pump who do not always is on, there is a sensor for as you drive straight ahead, it is
to prevent worn out motor.

The sensor is on the steerings wheel, and sees where it is.
The pump manages itself using a pressure switch. No external sensor is needed.
 
Oke That does make sense.

Mine citroen saxo does stop the motor when I do not steer, for example on a highway.

Only when go steering it helps. I think for a pressure sensor there is a need to stay on pressure, so there is also a kind of valve
who keep care of that, but also the steer box itslefs can have some of these in it, where the P6 is complete different.

There are also steer help systems who use a motor with a wormwheel in it like a wiper motor aan d sits between the steer and the box
no pressure or oil needed, this is used more these days.
 
Can anyone say which seal is suspect on our steering box from this photo (20240121_124207.jpg) ? Is this a removal and repair job ? I'm trying to prioritise all the work items I have.
Also, the steering damper - something that "sounds like" it should use oil. Mine looks pristine, and it could be a case of "dont touch if it dont need fixing" or "check it to be safe" (photo: 20240121_123736.jpg). The w/s manual hardly mentions it, and just illustrates it with "steering idler damper complete". They do wear out, but I can't say I notice 'bump steer' or similar, but then the feel of our P6 is SO different to our more recent (that's last 30 years) experience!
 

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Oke That does make sense.

Mine citroen saxo does stop the motor when I do not steer, for example on a highway.

Only when go steering it helps. I think for a pressure sensor there is a need to stay on pressure, so there is also a kind of valve
who keep care of that, but also the steer box itslefs can have some of these in it, where the P6 is complete different.

There are also steer help systems who use a motor with a wormwheel in it like a wiper motor aan d sits between the steer and the box
no pressure or oil needed, this is used more these days.


All I know is that this pump is used for literally everything with a hydraulic rack or box. No fancy sensors required.
 
I have also a question, one bold used to fot the box on the car chassis I can not loose, it is the special version on the outer side, not the long bolds but the short pass bold, also I do not now the wrench valeu to loss this bold.

it is quite difficult.

regards
 

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I have also a question, one bold used to fot the box on the car chassis I can not loose, it is the special version on the outer side, not the long bolds but the short pass bold, also I do not now the wrench valeu to loss this bold.

it is quite difficult.

regards
Is it just the camera angle, or does the bolt on the right have a split pin ?
 
Can anyone say which seal is suspect on our steering box from this photo (20240121_124207.jpg) ? Is this a removal and repair job ? I'm trying to prioritise all the work items I have.
Also, the steering damper - something that "sounds like" it should use oil. Mine looks pristine, and it could be a case of "dont touch if it dont need fixing" or "check it to be safe" (photo: 20240121_123736.jpg). The w/s manual hardly mentions it, and just illustrates it with "steering idler damper complete". They do wear out, but I can't say I notice 'bump steer' or similar, but then the feel of our P6 is SO different to our more recent (that's last 30 years) experience!
It is difficult to tell where the oil is leaking from but on LHD TCs, it is likely the bottom seal. It is exposed to significant heat from the exhaust manifold. I doubt that it would be possible to replace the seal with the box in the car. You have to remove the drop arm in order to fit a new seal and you probably need a puller to get it off. There is no room to get the puller in place if the box is in the car. There are several discussions on the forum talking about options. Some folks suggest filling the box with heavy grease instead of oil. This definitely reduces any leakage. There are also several threads discussing the idler/damper. They can be rebuilt and several folks have suggested ideas on how to do that. You can also just refill it with oil through the small hole on the top cover.
 
DAK - that is brilliant. I hadn't found those discussions, but I'll have a better look. You've given me some words to use to improve my search.
Very very useful - the grease option is interesting.
Thanks again. - Paul
 
Is it just the camera angle, or does the bolt on the right have a split pin ?

It is one of the three bolds the steeringbox is fitted with to the chassis, the one who make trouble is the one on the wheel side, it has no split pin, so it are not the ball joints.
 

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Wow, that looks gnarly (as the locals here say). I assume you've tried alternating heat and cold on it? You might want to try tightening it a little before undoing. Sometimes that's the final straw and things start moving. Other wise its the angle grinder to remove the head, then weld a nut to the remaining bolt shank (heat from welding often helps) and replace with new.
 
It is one of the three bolds the steeringbox is fitted with to the chassis, the one who make trouble is the one on the wheel side, it has no split pin, so it are not the ball joints.
A tab washer shown in picture, holds the nut to the steering box.
 

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Wow, that looks gnarly (as the locals here say). I assume you've tried alternating heat and cold on it? You might want to try tightening it a little before undoing. Sometimes that's the final straw and things start moving. Other wise its the angle grinder to remove the head, then weld a nut to the remaining bolt shank (heat from welding often helps) and replace with new.
The rust is because the privious owner has let go all ythe break oil and steerbox oil who is corrosive. But the rust looks much more heavy then in reality, it is just a thin layer.
 
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