engine fires but wont run

C

cooper1203

Member
ok wtf has gone on now!!!!! bodge along with burnie has been at the wiring for the internal courtesy light. yesterday I had to join new wires into the loom for the offside of the car 1 positive and two earths. car drove and ran fine.... today I have had to replace the wire to the drivers switch as its missing from the roof lining and the wire from the switch disappears into a loom in the passenger glove box. so I disconnected that one and ran a new wire from the switch now the engine fires but stalls instantly. or at least soon as I touch the throttle. wtf has gone on???
 
Hi, it sounds like the engine is firing while cranking on the ballast bypass from the starter, then when
you come off the key it dies. Yes? So I would say check the coil has power in the run position.

Colin
 
hi thanks for the reply. I did check the voltage across the coil and it was down to 3.4 volts. I then decided to put the car away in disgust as time was getting on and I had someone coming to visit so was going to push the car back into the garage jumped in and put key in ignition as steering lock was on and out of habit started the engine and it worked.

however the door switches are not connected to anything at the moment (run out of double bullet connector things) so it could only be the boot and I can open and close the boot with the engine running and it doesn't die... also can now start the car normally so god knows what's gone on
coop
 
cooper1203 said:
hi thanks for the reply. I did check the voltage across the coil and it was down to 3.4 volts. I then decided to put the car away in disgust as time was getting on and I had someone coming to visit so was going to push the car back into the garage jumped in and put key in ignition as steering lock was on and out of habit started the engine and it worked.

however the door switches are not connected to anything at the moment (run out of double bullet connector things) so it could only be the boot and I can open and close the boot with the engine running and it doesn't die... also can now start the car normally so god knows what's gone on
coop
Click to expand...

Potentially just a dodgy bullet connector.

The engine on key start position bypasses the ballast resistor, when the key position is in ignition alone ie normal running the the coil is supplied by the ballast resistor.
Static voltages measured on your coil can lead you astray in that the voltage read depends on whether the points are open or closed.

Graeme
 
hi all thanks for the replies. Tomorrow I intend on putting all the trim back and finishing off the light. then I will take it for a drive round the block stopping and starting the engine. if I can manage to get it to fail then I shall look and see if the ignition light comes back on and voltages at the coil etc and look if the points are open or shut.

according to my wiring diagram the fuse for the instrument panel is run straight off the switch in the "run" position then there is a wire at the same point as the ignition wire that goes to the ballast wire, coil etc. is this the way it is actually wired or is it two separate wires from the switch.
many thanks
coop
 
Hi Coop,

The ignition switch, if in need of attention, can also be responsible for the same symptoms. The engine will start, but as soon as you release tension on the key allowing it to return to position 2, the engine will cut out.

Ron.
 
SydneyRoverP6B said:
Hi Coop,

The ignition switch, if in need of attention, can also be responsible for the same symptoms. The engine will start, but as soon as you release tension on the key allowing it to return to position 2, the engine will cut out.

Ron.
Click to expand...

hi thanks for the reply that's what I was trying to prove. nearest I can get to the ignition switch with out removing the steering column is the fuse. hence the above question. if I had 12v there then the fault couldn't be the switch.... if I didn't then it would be
coop
 
Hi, if you unplug the short switch lead from the loom and wire a battery and bulb temporarily
through the appropriate plug connections and then keep switching the key on and off to check
that it works everytime.

Colin
 
colnerov said:
Hi, if you unplug the short switch lead from the loom and wire a battery and bulb temporarily
through the appropriate plug connections and then keep switching the key on and off to check
that it works everytime.

Colin
Click to expand...
sorry not quite sure what u mean. do u mean the plug on the back of the ignition switch?? if so the wm says u have to take the steering column out to get to the switch.
sorry to be thick
coop
 
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