Dunlop Brakes - Early 2000 rebuild

Funnily enough just saw it myself this morning, would love it but my long-suffering partner has alredy had her patience tested with 3 Rovers and i think this would be the straw that broke the camels back! Probably a chassis number less than 750 to be a '63 car. Have emailed the seller to ask him and will let you know.

;)
 
I have heard from the seller who tells me the chassis no is
40009347B so far from being a '63 car it is more likely to be a '65 car. So there you go not as rare as we thought but would still be useful for spares. ???
 
I think you're about right with the ebay car. From James Taylor's book there were 6432 cars made in the 1964 season (Oct 63 to Sept 64). With 13751 in the following season, chassis 9347 would be roughly December 1964, and with a 'B' plate it would have to be registered in 1964. It was probably someone's Christmas present! :)
 
P.S.

...on the same basis, my wingless wonder is likely to be an April 1964 car. I will no doubt send for a Heritage Certificate in due course.

Phil.
 
Hi,

I'm (hopefully) not too far off putting the Dunlops back together now. All the cylinders are fortunately reusable, so it's seal kits all round after sandblasting the calipers etc.

I have never made up new fixed brake pipes before, though. Do I need one of the (expensive) vice-held flaring tools or will one of the hand-held ones do? I'm not thinking of going into business doing brakes - just want to make a good job on my own car!

Phil.
 
I use one of those hand pipe flaring tools they are ok to use..but pactice first on a scrap piece of brake pipe first and when you get the hang of it go to the car and try it.and practice bending the pipe as well before doing it on the car..bend it round your thumb and not to sharp or it will kink and you will need to do it again.
 
If you are looking for NOS Dunlop brake parts, I have some here. The sale will help fund purchase of Girling brake parts for my P6. :D
 
Hi, I too have Dunlop brakes - restored these last year with new parts & reconditioned parts not as expensive as you might think & a lot less work than changing over to Girlings!

I bought a professional (made in England) brake flaring tool, cost about £80, what an excellent buy, very pleased with it and used it far more than I anticipated. You could buy a kit from Automec, but their pipe lengths are a bit out - I had to adapt most of them - I told them the correct lengths, don't know if they amended their records.

I would also recommend a pipe bending tool, cost about £9, (also made in England), this was invaluable to replicate the original tight curves, particularly on the calipers themselves.

Bleeding the brakes on a Dunlop is much harder than girling - air-locks in the lines are the order of the day - this is because of the pipework route - encourages trapped air, mostly at the rear. I overcame this by bleeding at the joints, then you have a nice hard pedal.

Also, you should ensure that you have the bleed nipples with the ball-bearing - these make a good seal, the standard nipples don't seal as well leading a light weep - I tried these and could never get a dry seal. When I got the correct ball-bearings (RP Services), this was all fine.

Good luck

Gary
 
I also use a brake double flaring tool and the smallest bending tool I could find. It's an Imperial Eastman tool for pipes 1/8, 3/16, and 1/4 inches (sorry not marked in metric). I first bought a similar looking tool from Clarkes except it was for bigger piping (I found after dragging it 6000 miles home).

I completely redid all the brake lines on my 1969 2000 TC restoration using the old fittings cleaned up.

Take care and take time. After all it's your life in the balance!

Eric
 
I managed to get a made-up set of pipes from Ian Wilson off ebay. I'll get a pipe bending tool though as suggested - thanks.

Phil.
 
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